Hi everyone, I am new here and hope you can help me, I did a search and have not found the actual info I need yet.
I have a 67 fastback with original 289, I am trying to find the correct procedure for adjusting the valves, have been told to adjust with engine running, tighten to zero lash noise and then 1/4 turn but in my search have read where others have stated to go TDC, (not running) and then tighten to zero rod spin and a 1/2 turn or so past. Any idea on what is truly a correct way to adjust them? This engine is not built and I believe is all original, all though the valve covers had been pulled by previous owner as proof by the gasket goop which is all over. Also what is the correct valve cover bolt length? they have 3 different ones in them!! Are you suppose to use gasket adhesive with valve covers?
Thank you in advance for your help!!

 

Warm the engine by running it until it gets to operating temperature (15-minutes or so). Have all your tools ready and remove the valve cover(s) and start the adjustment procedure with the #1 Intake valve at FULL LIFT (this means that you spin the engine until the Intake valve on the #1 cylinder is fully open). Loosen the rocker (if using roller rockers there is a Jam Nut that you must loosen with an Allen Wrench). Now, with two fingers spinning the push-rod between them to feel for resistance you easily snug the adjustment nut. When you feel resistance STOP, now you will adjust the nut down "Only" 1/4-1/2 turn (If you operate your engine a consistent high RPM, use the lighter setting of 1/8 turn)

If you have a high mileage engine that the lifters bleed off pressure (drain the oil out of). You can improperly adjust your valves. You need oil in the lifters to be able to get an accurate setting. If you repeatedly adjust the valves this way and they are still not correct, you probably have lifters bleeding off during adjustment. You have two options: Replace the Lifters -= or =- adjust the valves the "HOT" method which is a PITA and very messy.

 

Slickman, Thanks for the post. I believe I acutally started with the PITA procedure out of the chute last night, which is why I am concerned whether they are correct before I drive the car. I had the engine warm, running, valve covers off , they were all very loose to start with and I could hear noise from them with covers on prior to doing anyting, I tightend each one slightly so there was no major play in them, started the engine, loosened to beginning of clatter, tightend to no clatter, then a 1/4 turn past, but 2 things:
1- I did not do this in proper order, I did left side, then right.
2- Since I did this 'Hot" with engine running, it should have dealt with the bleed off issue you mentioned ,Right? (not considering the issue whether the lifters are all good, ?) it seemed like there were a couple that I had to redo, as the noise came back and then were okay after readjust, and should I repeat this in a proper order or try your 1st procedure instead?
Thanks for your help!!
C.

 

You're welcome.. Yes, if you did this with the engine running the bleed off issue is not a concern. If you have to re-adjust the same lifters after some time, they may need to be replaced. Over time the lifter will collapse and that's a very bad thing you don't want to happen.

 

Here is an easy guide you can print out and take out to the shop with you.
http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod/valveadj.html

 

It comes down to personal preference, some do it with the engine running and some do it without. If you do it without you definitely need to have it at operating temperature. Wearing Mechanix type gloves helps with touching the hot parts.

With hydrolic lifters I prefer the while-running method. I do it as you described, loosen the nut until is makes noise, tighten slowly until it stops, then go 1/4 to 1/2 turn more. You've got a bit of room for error with hydrolic lifters so you should be fine.

With solid lifters I prefer the not-running method. The only real trick is to be sure you're on the base circle of the cam when you're adjusting that particular lifter.

Justin

 

Yeah, you can use an old set of valve covers with the tops cut off to get access to the adjusters. This way it keeps much of the oil in the engine and not all over it.

 

Original 289? You should have non-adjustable rockers, ie, torque 'em to 20lb-ft. If you actually have adjustables, adjust each rocker while the lifter is on the base circle, not at max lift. Ideally, the pushrod should be adjusted about 1/2 through the travel of the piston in the lifter.

Buy a new set of valve cover bolts, that way you have the right ones in there. Also, yes, you do use gasket sealer/adhesive on the valve cover gaskets. Typically, you'd seal/glue the gasket to the valve cover itself. All according to FelPro.

 

This is the correct way to do it. base circle of the cam. that means the valve is not open. You cant adjust them with the valve open, think about it. if the lobe is lifting the lifter, and the valve is closed and only opened 1/4 turn, its not gonna run. The valves wont open. but you run a high risk of bending the pushrods because the rocker arms will move around, and the pushrod will fall out of the pocket, then be shoved against something that doesnt move.

besides, unless you have a 271 horse 289 with the solid cam, its torque them to 20ftlbs just like colorado said. Stock fords dont have adjustable rockers, most are adjusted by changing the length of the pushrod. Like the 4.0 explorer engine, what a pile of defecation they are. if you have aftermarket full roller rockers on it, not just a roller tip, then yeah you have poly locks that need adjusted.

 

Actually there are several ways that work--If you want the factory's correct way I suggest that you fing a good manual (Local Library) and look it up.

This is not a wise guy remark but as you can see everyone has their own methos.

My first rule is "IF IT AIN'T BROKE DON'T FIX IT"


Personally I like the -----With engine running take out the lash and then tighten 3/4 turn.

When this engine series started back in 62 with the 221 the factory said tighten 2 full turns-- Time went on and many other ideas were put forward.

I have tried most of them and they all seemed to work equally well.

A quality lifter has about 1/4 inch (.250) of adjustment built into it (About 4 full turns) so each 1/4 turn is .0675 which will allow the valve train to shrink .0675 before it taps or grow .0925 before it will miss due to the valve being open.

In short take your pick.