What distributor to get???
Hey I have a 67 coupe and my 408 stroker is almost done... I thought my MSD distributor would fit it but the shaft is too narrow. What distributor should I get or is there a different shaft that I can buy? Its a 351 W block...
Sounds like you may have a distributor for a 302. You need one for a 351W. The housing shaft is thicker and longer for a 351W in comparison to the 302.
If you're not running high compression, high rpm, or any types of power adders, a stock distributor with an electronic upgrade will do fine. For that matter points will suffice. Get a good quality resin filled coil from Napa, and call it a day.
If money isn't tight, I like the MSD over the Mallory as a personal preference thing.
If money is no object a crank trigger and coil packs is awesome!
If you're not running high compression, high rpm, or any types of power adders, a stock distributor with an electronic upgrade will do fine. For that matter points will suffice. Get a good quality resin filled coil from Napa, and call it a day.
If money isn't tight, I like the MSD over the Mallory as a personal preference thing.
If money is no object a crank trigger and coil packs is awesome!
There's quite a few power adders... 408 stroker kit, forged pistons, steel crank, etc.. edelbrock intake double pumper carb, ported and polished heads... I need a good distributor but I am on a budget, what should I go with?
Uh...no.
A power adder is something like nitrous, a blower, a turbo. Something that "adds power" above and beyond a normal natural aspiration (standard carbureted engine).
What you are getting is a nice group of components for a naturally aspirated engine.
Do you plan to add nitrous, a blower, or a turbo?
If not, then I would suggest a quality new stock distributor and coil from a quality autoparts store like Napa. On a dyno you won't see enough difference between this and a high dollar unit like an MSD to make a real world difference.
Unless the parts are picked incorrectly, causing a major jump in compression, you won't see more than 17KV from the coil. A 408 is not a high reving motor, so coil saturation and points bounce isn't a problem. Maybe add a Pertronix II just to eliminate the points for a maintenance and consistency point of view. That's as far as I'd go.
Then take all that money you saved, and go practice at the track. Nothing like practice to make your car faster.
Good luck,
Scott
P.S. if you had a big budget I'd suggest a higher end system. But quite honestly, until you can consistently run within the same tenth in a quarter, you aren't going to see the advantage. It's when you become exceptionally consistent that all the little tweaks start adding up.
A power adder is something like nitrous, a blower, a turbo. Something that "adds power" above and beyond a normal natural aspiration (standard carbureted engine).
What you are getting is a nice group of components for a naturally aspirated engine.
Do you plan to add nitrous, a blower, or a turbo?
If not, then I would suggest a quality new stock distributor and coil from a quality autoparts store like Napa. On a dyno you won't see enough difference between this and a high dollar unit like an MSD to make a real world difference.
Unless the parts are picked incorrectly, causing a major jump in compression, you won't see more than 17KV from the coil. A 408 is not a high reving motor, so coil saturation and points bounce isn't a problem. Maybe add a Pertronix II just to eliminate the points for a maintenance and consistency point of view. That's as far as I'd go.
Then take all that money you saved, and go practice at the track. Nothing like practice to make your car faster.

Good luck,
Scott
P.S. if you had a big budget I'd suggest a higher end system. But quite honestly, until you can consistently run within the same tenth in a quarter, you aren't going to see the advantage. It's when you become exceptionally consistent that all the little tweaks start adding up.
Thanks! I had a MSD on my 289, but I really didn't notice any difference in power between that and the stock one... other than it quit missing and the timing curve was a little easier to dial in. I think I'm probably going to start off with a stock distributor for now and get another MSD unit further down the road.
If you didn't notice a difference, the engine didn't need it. If you have a high rpm engine, be sure to get a higher end dizzy with bearings instead of bushings. The self contained dizzies would be the best way to go for a starter...a box can be added later on.
The difference between stockish (dual point racing dizzy from Accel) and MSD-6AL on my car was night and day...and I haven't changed the coil or dizzy, yet.
The difference between stockish (dual point racing dizzy from Accel) and MSD-6AL on my car was night and day...and I haven't changed the coil or dizzy, yet.
ORIGINAL: superdavid
Thanks! I had a MSD on my 289, but I really didn't notice any difference in power between that and the stock one... other than it quit missing and the timing curve was a little easier to dial in. I think I'm probably going to start off with a stock distributor for now and get another MSD unit further down the road.
Thanks! I had a MSD on my 289, but I really didn't notice any difference in power between that and the stock one... other than it quit missing and the timing curve was a little easier to dial in. I think I'm probably going to start off with a stock distributor for now and get another MSD unit further down the road.
ORIGINAL: Colorado_Mustang
If you didn't notice a difference, the engine didn't need it. If you have a high rpm engine, be sure to get a higher end dizzy with bearings instead of bushings. The self contained dizzies would be the best way to go for a starter...a box can be added later on.
The difference between stockish (dual point racing dizzy from Accel) and MSD-6AL on my car was night and day...and I haven't changed the coil or dizzy, yet.
If you didn't notice a difference, the engine didn't need it. If you have a high rpm engine, be sure to get a higher end dizzy with bearings instead of bushings. The self contained dizzies would be the best way to go for a starter...a box can be added later on.
The difference between stockish (dual point racing dizzy from Accel) and MSD-6AL on my car was night and day...and I haven't changed the coil or dizzy, yet.
Scott
Mileage went from 11ish to 14ish. Traction problems became more apparent.
I had no problem with my prior engine (really the same one, different heads raising the compression from 9.6 to 11.4, windage tray, balanced), but noticed it could not keep up with the new engine, most likely due to the compression increase. I can only guess that the lower compression engine would have been helped, but won't be downgrading anytime soon.
I had no problem with my prior engine (really the same one, different heads raising the compression from 9.6 to 11.4, windage tray, balanced), but noticed it could not keep up with the new engine, most likely due to the compression increase. I can only guess that the lower compression engine would have been helped, but won't be downgrading anytime soon.
I shopped around on Ebay and found a really nice HEI (High Energy Ignition) for just $60. Came with performance "curve" and adjustable vacuum canister. BEARINGS (double) on the shaft. Cool thing is that coil is built in to the top!! ONE WIRE HOOKUP (Red for power). Also has an output for electronic tach. Worked GREAT. Better power, and now my engine actually IDLEs!!
Check it out!
[IMG]local://upfiles/24857/0CCBF65CC41B43F5BAA4A586AE9ABF82.jpg[/IMG]
Check it out!
[IMG]local://upfiles/24857/0CCBF65CC41B43F5BAA4A586AE9ABF82.jpg[/IMG]
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