distributor removal
Thread Starter
5th Gear Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 3,806
From: DFW
RE: distributor removal
ORIGINAL: 428coupe
The number one cylinder gets to TDC twice in the 4 stroke engine, once is TDC on the compression stroke and once is TDC on the exhaust stroke, the camshaft rotates twice for each rotation of the crank. If he installs the distributer with the rotor button pointing at the number one cylinder while the number one cylinder is at TDC of the exhaust stroke, the camshaft will be 180 degrees out.
ORIGINAL: 6mustang6
If the number one cylinder is at the top of the piston, thats top dead center right? IS there anyway to screw that up?
make sure at TDC and not 180 off.
The number one cylinder gets to TDC twice in the 4 stroke engine, once is TDC on the compression stroke and once is TDC on the exhaust stroke, the camshaft rotates twice for each rotation of the crank. If he installs the distributer with the rotor button pointing at the number one cylinder while the number one cylinder is at TDC of the exhaust stroke, the camshaft will be 180 degrees out.
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 181
From: West Virginia
RE: distributor removal
I meant to say that the crank rotates twice for each turn of the cam. the easiest way to do it is to mark the alignment of the rotor button to the cap prior to rmoval of the distributor, as stated earlier. If you pull the dist. without marking it, you can remove the valve cover on the no. 1 side and watch the rocker arms. After the intake valve closes, the piston is travelling upwards in the bore, wait for it to get to TDC, that is TDC compression stroke.
5th Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,089
From:
RE: distributor removal
Well, since you're replacing the cam, you'll want the engine at TDC (where it's at in the cycle doesn't matter without the cam) before you tear it apart.
With the cap off, rotate the engine by hand until the rotor is pointing to #1 and align the mark on your damper to the 'TDC' mark.
Install the cam straight up, bolt everything up, and the dizzy will go back in with the rotor will point to #1.
Tip: Rotate the damper to the timing you intend to run (10* for your setup should be a good starting point). Install and rotate the dizzy so the rotor will be just STARTING to touch the contact in the cap. Prime the fuel system (easier with an electric pump, but you can fill the carb bowls on the bench and get the accelerator pumps filled easy enough...it is best to not crank the engine to prime the fuel, but doesn't necessarily hurt anything). The engine will now start immediately, which is much better than cranking without starting for a longer period of time. Oh, and don't forget to prime the oil system before installing the dizzy. You can either buy the tool for this or use a long extension securely attached to a socket. I use the latter with high quality tape between the socket and extension...and, no, I've never lost a socket.
With the cap off, rotate the engine by hand until the rotor is pointing to #1 and align the mark on your damper to the 'TDC' mark.
Install the cam straight up, bolt everything up, and the dizzy will go back in with the rotor will point to #1.
Tip: Rotate the damper to the timing you intend to run (10* for your setup should be a good starting point). Install and rotate the dizzy so the rotor will be just STARTING to touch the contact in the cap. Prime the fuel system (easier with an electric pump, but you can fill the carb bowls on the bench and get the accelerator pumps filled easy enough...it is best to not crank the engine to prime the fuel, but doesn't necessarily hurt anything). The engine will now start immediately, which is much better than cranking without starting for a longer period of time. Oh, and don't forget to prime the oil system before installing the dizzy. You can either buy the tool for this or use a long extension securely attached to a socket. I use the latter with high quality tape between the socket and extension...and, no, I've never lost a socket.
I ♥ Acer
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 17,565
From:
RE: distributor removal
There are several ways to tell when you are at TDC on #1. An easy way is to pull the #1 plug and stuff a rag in the hole with a screw driver, then short across the solenoid and when the rag pops out, you are at TDC compression stroke and the rotor will be facing the plug wire on the cap at about 1:00 O'clock.
Thread Starter
5th Gear Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 3,806
From: DFW
RE: distributor removal
my dad told me to plug the hole with my finger, the hand crank the engine slowly untill i feel the compression
crap, im half tempted to just take the head off and watch the piston
crap, im half tempted to just take the head off and watch the piston
Thread Starter
5th Gear Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 3,806
From: DFW
RE: distributor removal
ORIGINAL: Colorado_Mustang
Well, since you're replacing the cam, you'll want the engine at TDC (where it's at in the cycle doesn't matter without the cam) before you tear it apart.
With the cap off, rotate the engine by hand until the rotor is pointing to #1 and align the mark on your damper to the 'TDC' mark.
Install the cam straight up, bolt everything up, and the dizzy will go back in with the rotor will point to #1.
Tip: Rotate the damper to the timing you intend to run (10* for your setup should be a good starting point). Install and rotate the dizzy so the rotor will be just STARTING to touch the contact in the cap. Prime the fuel system (easier with an electric pump, but you can fill the carb bowls on the bench and get the accelerator pumps filled easy enough...it is best to not crank the engine to prime the fuel, but doesn't necessarily hurt anything). The engine will now start immediately, which is much better than cranking without starting for a longer period of time. Oh, and don't forget to prime the oil system before installing the dizzy. You can either buy the tool for this or use a long extension securely attached to a socket. I use the latter with high quality tape between the socket and extension...and, no, I've never lost a socket.
Well, since you're replacing the cam, you'll want the engine at TDC (where it's at in the cycle doesn't matter without the cam) before you tear it apart.
With the cap off, rotate the engine by hand until the rotor is pointing to #1 and align the mark on your damper to the 'TDC' mark.
Install the cam straight up, bolt everything up, and the dizzy will go back in with the rotor will point to #1.
Tip: Rotate the damper to the timing you intend to run (10* for your setup should be a good starting point). Install and rotate the dizzy so the rotor will be just STARTING to touch the contact in the cap. Prime the fuel system (easier with an electric pump, but you can fill the carb bowls on the bench and get the accelerator pumps filled easy enough...it is best to not crank the engine to prime the fuel, but doesn't necessarily hurt anything). The engine will now start immediately, which is much better than cranking without starting for a longer period of time. Oh, and don't forget to prime the oil system before installing the dizzy. You can either buy the tool for this or use a long extension securely attached to a socket. I use the latter with high quality tape between the socket and extension...and, no, I've never lost a socket.
I ♥ Acer
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 17,565
From:
RE: distributor removal
ORIGINAL: atomsk680
my dad told me to plug the hole with my finger, the hand crank the engine slowly untill i feel the compression
crap, im half tempted to just take the head off and watch the piston
my dad told me to plug the hole with my finger, the hand crank the engine slowly untill i feel the compression
crap, im half tempted to just take the head off and watch the piston
You aren't listening. Your rotor will be pointing right at 1:00 O'Clock when it is time for the #1 piston to fire. The #1 piston needs to be at or near TDC when the rotor is pointing toward 1:00 O'clock, then you need to time the engine with a light until you are at about 6-8 degrees TDC. You can insert a screw driver into the #1 plug hole and feel when the piston is at the top. No need to take off the head.
Thread Starter
5th Gear Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 3,806
From: DFW
RE: distributor removal
ORIGINAL: Soaring
How in hell are you going to have your finger in the #1 plug hole while cranking the engine by hand? You aren't listening. Your rotor will be pointing right at 1:00 O'Clock when it is time for the #1 piston to fire. The #1 piston needs to be at or near TDC when the rotor is pointing toward 1:00 O'clock, then you need to time the engine with a light until you are at about 6-8 degrees TDC. You can insert a screw driver into the #1 plug hole and feel when the piston is at the top. No need to take off the head.
ORIGINAL: atomsk680
my dad told me to plug the hole with my finger, the hand crank the engine slowly untill i feel the compression
crap, im half tempted to just take the head off and watch the piston
my dad told me to plug the hole with my finger, the hand crank the engine slowly untill i feel the compression
crap, im half tempted to just take the head off and watch the piston
You aren't listening. Your rotor will be pointing right at 1:00 O'Clock when it is time for the #1 piston to fire. The #1 piston needs to be at or near TDC when the rotor is pointing toward 1:00 O'clock, then you need to time the engine with a light until you are at about 6-8 degrees TDC. You can insert a screw driver into the #1 plug hole and feel when the piston is at the top. No need to take off the head.
and
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I ♥ Acer
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 17,565
From:
RE: distributor removal
Obviously, there are many ways to set the timing, and to tune your engine. If you set your engine to static timing of about 6-8 degrees below top dead center you will be close. Then, you just use your ear to tweak it. You don't have a radical cam, so that subject does not need to be discussed.