Traction bars practical for street use?
4th Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,142
From: Nor*Cal
RE: Traction bars practical for street use?
ORIGINAL: dodgestang
Photos of my car? Don't think I have any of those
Photos of my car? Don't think I have any of those
5th Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,089
From:
RE: Traction bars practical for street use?
I use traction bars on my '71. Sticky tires + torque = wheel hop = broken stuff.[:@] The traction bars will keep wheel hop under control and are useful for those times you just gotta show that ricer what a real engine does.
4th Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,142
From: Nor*Cal
RE: Traction bars practical for street use?
The underriders like dodges' just bolt at the u-bolt plate under the leafs , and then weld up at the other end. I don't have them yet, but from the looks of it its a nobrainer.
4th Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,142
From: Nor*Cal
RE: Traction bars practical for street use?
ORIGINAL: 2bav8
I'm pretty happy with my Cal-tracs on the street.
Definitely made a huge improvement over underriders.
I'm pretty happy with my Cal-tracs on the street.
Definitely made a huge improvement over underriders.
5th Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,176
From: Insanity
RE: Traction bars practical for street use?
I got the under riders from M-plus.
I haven't had any wheel hop at all in this car with the 5 leafs, kyb gas a just in the rear and the underriders
on the street with street tires or the drag strip w/ DRs
Might be the combination of heavy suspension with them. If I went to a softer shock it might perform differently.
I haven't had any wheel hop at all in this car with the 5 leafs, kyb gas a just in the rear and the underriders
on the street with street tires or the drag strip w/ DRs
Might be the combination of heavy suspension with them. If I went to a softer shock it might perform differently.
5th Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,566
From: Marquette Mi
RE: Traction bars practical for street use?
slapper bars dont help plant the rear tires. They control wheelhop by keeping the leaf spring from wrapping up. its most pronounced on monoleafs since they use one single spring. Multileaf such as Mustangs, and Trans Ams dont need it as bad as a Nova with a single leaf.
Every action has an equal and opposite reaction. The rear wheels are trying to rotate one way, the rear axle is trying to rotate the other way. The spring wraps up under that force and when it cant move anymore it springs back. The more power you put to it, the faster it does that. The repetitive motion is called an oscillation. By attaching a limiting device that prevents the rear axle from rotating opposite the wheels (that is pinion upward) you can eliminate the hopping action. if you simply spin your tires, slapper bars arent going to help you. Additionally as alluded to above, if the snubber isnt contacting the spring eye under load, then it isnt doing anything.
caltracs are similar to a watts link but they are placed on the spring to control the spring wrapping. Additionally you can use them to preload the rear suspension. The real key to getting a car to hook for a 0-whatever acceleration is the pinion angle and instant center. The instant center (IC) is the pivot point around which the rear axle moves in its arc. Most cars have the IC way up high and near the rear of the car. That produces a squating upon acceleration. Changing the IC to below the front bumper level and farther infront of it will result in a car that lifts the front end very easily.
The setup dodgestang has changes the IC by providing another point of rotation for the rear end. You want the rear axle to be forced downward upon acceleration. If the rear end squats, the rear end is actually being lifted rather than pushed down. if you make the rear end lighter, the tires will spin easier than if you are pushing it downward.
This is a very basic and limited explaination, but if you do some research on pinion angle, and instant center you can find the answers to making your car hook on a gravel road.
Every action has an equal and opposite reaction. The rear wheels are trying to rotate one way, the rear axle is trying to rotate the other way. The spring wraps up under that force and when it cant move anymore it springs back. The more power you put to it, the faster it does that. The repetitive motion is called an oscillation. By attaching a limiting device that prevents the rear axle from rotating opposite the wheels (that is pinion upward) you can eliminate the hopping action. if you simply spin your tires, slapper bars arent going to help you. Additionally as alluded to above, if the snubber isnt contacting the spring eye under load, then it isnt doing anything.
caltracs are similar to a watts link but they are placed on the spring to control the spring wrapping. Additionally you can use them to preload the rear suspension. The real key to getting a car to hook for a 0-whatever acceleration is the pinion angle and instant center. The instant center (IC) is the pivot point around which the rear axle moves in its arc. Most cars have the IC way up high and near the rear of the car. That produces a squating upon acceleration. Changing the IC to below the front bumper level and farther infront of it will result in a car that lifts the front end very easily.
The setup dodgestang has changes the IC by providing another point of rotation for the rear end. You want the rear axle to be forced downward upon acceleration. If the rear end squats, the rear end is actually being lifted rather than pushed down. if you make the rear end lighter, the tires will spin easier than if you are pushing it downward.
This is a very basic and limited explaination, but if you do some research on pinion angle, and instant center you can find the answers to making your car hook on a gravel road.