Adjustable Roller Rockers?? How to use??
Hello, i took my roller rockers off when rebuilding my engine about a month ago. Im throwing them back on now and i know they are not adjusted right. the stops( setscrews) in the nuts were all different heights and some of the rockers were loose and could be wiggled back and fourth before i took them off. There are a few nicks in the side of one which makes me think it was so off, it poped off the top of the valve. Anyways. Ive looked online for instructions and cannot find anything. They are stamped TRW 1.6 and they are aluminum adjustable roller rockers. How do i set them right?? Im completly lost and they are a lot more difficult to set compared to my GTP -Jon
First, make sure the fulcrum is facing the correct way. It should have a flat spot that will be against the adjusting nut. The rounded side goes down.
Loosen the jam screws or remove them. Adjustment is easiest with the intake off, but can be done with it on, as well.
Now for the fun part.
Rotate the engine by hand until #1 is at TDC (intake and exhaust will both be close and the lifter will be on the cam's base circle). With the intake off: tighten the rocker adjusting nut until the push rod moves the lifter's piston 1/3 to 1/2 way through its travel. With the intake on: slowly tighten the rocker until you feel the play between it and the push rod reaches zero. Then, tighten the nut about 1/2 turn (anywhere from 1/4 to 1 is what most people will say...but, I've been using 1/2 for quite some time and have good luck).
Then, rotate the engine until #2 is at TDC and repeat until you're done.
Have fun!!!
EDIT: Oh yeah....after each is adjusted, tight the jam screws so they don't loosen up so easy. Stud girdles would be a better idea for keeping them locked down.
Loosen the jam screws or remove them. Adjustment is easiest with the intake off, but can be done with it on, as well.
Now for the fun part.
Rotate the engine by hand until #1 is at TDC (intake and exhaust will both be close and the lifter will be on the cam's base circle). With the intake off: tighten the rocker adjusting nut until the push rod moves the lifter's piston 1/3 to 1/2 way through its travel. With the intake on: slowly tighten the rocker until you feel the play between it and the push rod reaches zero. Then, tighten the nut about 1/2 turn (anywhere from 1/4 to 1 is what most people will say...but, I've been using 1/2 for quite some time and have good luck).
Then, rotate the engine until #2 is at TDC and repeat until you're done.
Have fun!!!

EDIT: Oh yeah....after each is adjusted, tight the jam screws so they don't loosen up so easy. Stud girdles would be a better idea for keeping them locked down.
I did that to the best of my judgement. about 20 mins ago. Thats how i thought you did it, but was thinking, after it makes contact and has no play between the roller tip and the valve, you said to tighten it 1/4-1/2 turn more. Wont that make the valves stay open? Also, do the lifters have springs in them? because even if i tigthen the rockers down tillt heyre snug, they will have play between the tip/ and the valve after a few rotations. -Jon
The lifters will take up the slack and your valves won't stay open. If you go too far and bottom out the lifter piston, then you will leave your valves open. If you set a hydraulic lifter too loose, it will come apart in a few pieces.
The lifters will collapse after going through a couple revs without oil pressure. Start the car and build the pressure in the oil system before you go back. That's why it's easier with the intake off, so you can actually watch the piston and its location. I've had problems getting the rockers just right due to the collapse, but it usually works out if you have the patience.
I don't remember if there's an actual spring in the lifter or if it's only the oil pressure.
The lifters will collapse after going through a couple revs without oil pressure. Start the car and build the pressure in the oil system before you go back. That's why it's easier with the intake off, so you can actually watch the piston and its location. I've had problems getting the rockers just right due to the collapse, but it usually works out if you have the patience.
I don't remember if there's an actual spring in the lifter or if it's only the oil pressure.
ORIGINAL: Yonco
I did that to the best of my judgement. about 20 mins ago. Thats how i thought you did it, but was thinking, after it makes contact and has no play between the roller tip and the valve, you said to tighten it 1/4-1/2 turn more. Wont that make the valves stay open? Also, do the lifters have springs in them? because even if i tigthen the rockers down tillt heyre snug, they will have play between the tip/ and the valve after a few rotations. -Jon
I did that to the best of my judgement. about 20 mins ago. Thats how i thought you did it, but was thinking, after it makes contact and has no play between the roller tip and the valve, you said to tighten it 1/4-1/2 turn more. Wont that make the valves stay open? Also, do the lifters have springs in them? because even if i tigthen the rockers down tillt heyre snug, they will have play between the tip/ and the valve after a few rotations. -Jon
So... i got them set so they dont wiggle on their. I just hope i didnt bottom out the lifter. Also, you said run the engine then check them to make sure they didnt collapse? When i tightened the arms down, i saw the valvesprings vompress a SMALL amount, and right when they started to compress i stopped and the tips didnt have any play in them anymore. Does that mean the lifters are collaped? The engine hasnt ran in a month and the lifters dont have much oil in them, could that be a problem? -Jon
Also, when puttin on the intake manifold, i heard not to use the cork gaskets in the front and back. What should i use for sealer? Ive heard several different ones, i belive Permatex 300 was one of them? what should i use?
Also, when puttin on the intake manifold, i heard not to use the cork gaskets in the front and back. What should i use for sealer? Ive heard several different ones, i belive Permatex 300 was one of them? what should i use?
Since you have the intake off, you can look at the lifter and see how far it's pushed down. You shouldn't be opening the valves at all when properly adjusted on the base circle.
For the intake, just run a bead of RTV Blue along the front/back of the block where the manifold sits. After it has skinned, set the manifold down straight and torque away.
For the intake, just run a bead of RTV Blue along the front/back of the block where the manifold sits. After it has skinned, set the manifold down straight and torque away.
ORIGINAL: Yonco
So... i got them set so they dont wiggle on their. I just hope i didnt bottom out the lifter. Also, you said run the engine then check them to make sure they didnt collapse? When i tightened the arms down, i saw the valvesprings vompress a SMALL amount, and right when they started to compress i stopped and the tips didnt have any play in them anymore. Does that mean the lifters are collaped? The engine hasnt ran in a month and the lifters dont have much oil in them, could that be a problem? -Jon
Also, when puttin on the intake manifold, i heard not to use the cork gaskets in the front and back. What should i use for sealer? Ive heard several different ones, i belive Permatex 300 was one of them? what should i use?
So... i got them set so they dont wiggle on their. I just hope i didnt bottom out the lifter. Also, you said run the engine then check them to make sure they didnt collapse? When i tightened the arms down, i saw the valvesprings vompress a SMALL amount, and right when they started to compress i stopped and the tips didnt have any play in them anymore. Does that mean the lifters are collaped? The engine hasnt ran in a month and the lifters dont have much oil in them, could that be a problem? -Jon
Also, when puttin on the intake manifold, i heard not to use the cork gaskets in the front and back. What should i use for sealer? Ive heard several different ones, i belive Permatex 300 was one of them? what should i use?
Well, atleast someone knows what theyre talkin about. Because.. Even if i tighten it till its tight, then turn over the engine, they are loose again. And i keep tightening them like that till it eventually moved the valve a slight bit when i tighten it. -Jon
I think thats because you are doing them all at once and not setting each cylinder to TDC before tightening them. There's a sequence where you can do it just twice at #1 TDC and then 180 degrees from that, but I dont have it right offhand.
They will be. Tighten them once in order. After that, the lifters are collapsing and needing help (oil pressure) to fill back up. I generally will tighten each cylinder once, then start to make sure everything's okay. Sometimes I have to go through that routine a couple times. FYI, I loosen all the rockers before rotating the engine to minimize bleed down on the lifters.
ORIGINAL: Yonco
Well, atleast someone knows what theyre talkin about. Because.. Even if i tighten it till its tight, then turn over the engine, they are loose again. And i keep tightening them like that till it eventually moved the valve a slight bit when i tighten it. -Jon
Well, atleast someone knows what theyre talkin about. Because.. Even if i tighten it till its tight, then turn over the engine, they are loose again. And i keep tightening them like that till it eventually moved the valve a slight bit when i tighten it. -Jon
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