Bubbles in Master Cylinder
I replaced both front wheel bearings and races and adjusted brakes to get that "slight drag" when the wheel is turned. Now I have no brakes and bubbles/foam in the master cylinder. The wheel cylinders were not touched. Did I back off the brake adjustment too much? Just what do they mean by a "slight drag"? I spun the wheel and it only drags when it hits one spot. Is that correct or is the entire wheel supposed to drag all the way around? Corn-fused...
Changing the bearing and adjusting the shoes should have no effect on the fluid (air in lines). Have you changed any of the hoses, brake line etc lately. Are any of your WC's leaking? Did you blead the brakes? Check your hoses, lines and WC's to make sure you don't have a leak etc. That would be the only ways to really get air in the line.
If you have not done so in the past two-three years, consider replacing brake fluid. Old fluid absorbs moisture (yes, even in a sealed system) and that can result in less effective braking. I would at least try to blead the brakes and see if you are getting air from the WC's. If you have no leaks and you blead the whole system, you should be fine.
On the drag, if it is a pronounced difference in drag as the wheel rotates, the drums may be out of round. Easily solved by having the brake drums turned on a lathe. If only a slight difference, you should be ok til next brake job.
The most important thing, if you don't know what you are doiong, make sure you get all the answers to your questions before you star messing with the brakes, or take it to a pro to at least analyze the systems and identify the problem. Years ago, when I was a newbie, I used to take my car to midas and have them give me the free brake inspection, then repair the problems myself. (forgive me Midas, funds were low in the early days.)
Good luck.
If you have not done so in the past two-three years, consider replacing brake fluid. Old fluid absorbs moisture (yes, even in a sealed system) and that can result in less effective braking. I would at least try to blead the brakes and see if you are getting air from the WC's. If you have no leaks and you blead the whole system, you should be fine.
On the drag, if it is a pronounced difference in drag as the wheel rotates, the drums may be out of round. Easily solved by having the brake drums turned on a lathe. If only a slight difference, you should be ok til next brake job.
The most important thing, if you don't know what you are doiong, make sure you get all the answers to your questions before you star messing with the brakes, or take it to a pro to at least analyze the systems and identify the problem. Years ago, when I was a newbie, I used to take my car to midas and have them give me the free brake inspection, then repair the problems myself. (forgive me Midas, funds were low in the early days.)
Good luck.
I haven't had this happen to me, but I quess if there is not enough meat on the drum you could adjust them so far out that the piston in the W/C would come to far out and cause a leak when you apply the pedal. Pull the drums again and check the wc's again. Also, have someone measure the drums with a caliper (measuring tool) to determine if they are worn past minimum thickness. I believe the min. # is usuall stamped on the drum or you can find it in a shop manual. If that is the problem though, I would think you would see fluid leaking out of the wc. Don't you hate it when you fix something and wind up with another problem?
Good luck.
Good luck.
You should be getting a slight drag all the way around the drum. If not, then it is time for you to take your drums in to have them turned. And, while you have them off, you may as well replace the shoes. If you see any leaking at the wheel cylinders, take them off and replace them with new ones. Do not overhaul them.


