Strut rod replacement

Reply Subscribe

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

Dec 27, 2006 | 01:06 AM

baddog671

Thread Starter

6th Gear Member

Joined: May 2005

Posts: 5,736

From: MD/WV

Strut rod replacement

Im away from my car right now so I cant investigate for myself, perhaps someone can help me. Can I simply remove my strut rods or do I have to compress that spring first? From my memory it should just unbolt, but perhaps the LCA could shift with the rod missing?

Also, if replacing the strut rod assembly on my 67cp, what should I get. I have new bushings and Ill need the rods themselves, but isnt there sleeves too? like on the tierods? Thanks

Dec 27, 2006 | 01:40 AM

6mustang6

5th Gear Member

Joined: Jul 2004

Posts: 3,645

From:

RE: Strut rod replacement

No, you dont need to compress the spring. You dont even have to jack up the car or remove the wheel really, but the last time i did, i think i had the car in the air, with the wheel off. It still works just fine.

Dec 27, 2006 | 02:48 AM

Lumbergh

2nd Gear Member

Joined: Jul 2006

Posts: 444

From:

RE: Strut rod replacement

While I did mine with the car up on jackstands, I was replacing/rebuilding the entire front suspension. I could see removing and installing new strut rods without jacking the car up; it's just nto how I did it. And, yes there is a sleeve-brass, I believe-that goes over the rod end and inside of the bushings. It's not like the ones on the tie rods which allow you to adjust the length of the inner and outer tie rods.

Dec 27, 2006 | 04:55 AM

baddog671

Thread Starter

6th Gear Member

Joined: May 2005

Posts: 5,736

From: MD/WV

RE: Strut rod replacement

Thanks guys, I still need some parts for my suspension/handling rebuild. This will help!

Dec 28, 2006 | 04:55 PM

ebluekeys

2nd Gear Member

Joined: Nov 2005

Posts: 182

From:

RE: Strut rod replacement

I replaced mine with the aircraft grade Ball end, hard mounted to the frame. Best improvement I made in the handling of the car. I was able to have my alignment shop dial in 3 degrees of caster, which did MANY good things: 1) the car and wheel now center much better 2) The car now holds a straight line going down the road 3) the "oversteer" completely went away

The "Stock" setting for Caster is 1/2 degree - but most modern cars have MUCH more. Going to 3 degrees and using the hard mount with the ball link makes a HUGE positive improvement in the steering/handling of the car. I also installed a set of KYB "self adjusting" shocks, and the ride is not only smoother, but handling is much better as well!!

Dec 28, 2006 | 05:12 PM

THUMPIN455

5th Gear Member

Joined: Mar 2005

Posts: 3,566

From: Marquette Mi

RE: Strut rod replacement

Quote:

ORIGINAL: ebluekeys

I replaced mine with the aircraft grade Ball end, hard mounted to the frame. Best improvement I made in the handling of the car. I was able to have my alignment shop dial in 3 degrees of caster, which did MANY good things: 1) the car and wheel now center much better 2) The car now holds a straight line going down the road 3) the "oversteer" completely went away

The "Stock" setting for Caster is 1/2 degree - but most modern cars have MUCH more. Going to 3 degrees and using the hard mount with the ball link makes a HUGE positive improvement in the steering/handling of the car. I also installed a set of KYB "self adjusting" shocks, and the ride is not only smoother, but handling is much better as well!!

Can you get some pics of how you did that? The 67 and the 71 would enjoy having a setup like that.

Dec 28, 2006 | 07:34 PM

2bav8

2nd Gear Member

Joined: Apr 2006

Posts: 209

From: Mesa, AZ

RE: Strut rod replacement

Adding strut rods with heim joints is definitely a good upgrade.
Made quite an improvement in steering response on my '66.

This is basically what it looks like: