Soaring

OOOH! Don't wanna miss, A 5 lb hammer and a hand don't mix too well. The hammer will win everytime.

Shifty101Easy

i remember trying to do this a while back...nothing worked, so in my frustration...i got the drill up to full speed with a big bit in it and just jammed it into the screw hole...he he...it worked....

snobigy

Thanks guys! All very helpful tips. So far, the impact driver is showing this striker as ver, very subborn. So, I already was thinking of the 'weld-on method.
I will let you know

4reboy

my dad tried the screwdriver and vice grip method soaring, and can only get one free! Those are a pain in the a$$. Soo when my car was sandblasted we just left those on

66GTKFB

There's an old saying - 'the right tool for the right job'. An impact tool is the right tool.
Jim

Tony R

it is the right tool only if the heads arent stripped out and they are rusted in pretty good.

66GTKFB

Thus proving my point - the right tool for the right job. It's not a reflection on you if the screw heads came 'pre-striped' when you bought the carand you know that rust is a common accessory on all Mustangs but with an impact hammer and a three pound sledge hammer (and a bit of bulk in the operator), you may strike (pun intended) paydirt.
Jim

GypsyR

More than once someone has borrowed my hand impact only to return it, saying "it didn't work". It does work, but you have to use it correctly. Are you? And some are better than others, like most tools. Most impact drivers have a "ring" that you have to turn to to tighten or loosen a fastener. Set to tighten, one sure won't break a screw loose. In action you can't just hit it with a hammer, you have to grasp it firmly and hold it as if you are trying to use it alone to loosen the screw, THEN smack it with the hammer. Usually repeatedly. Like most things this is a bit easier if you've had some practice. Once you've used one (and NOTHING else I know of works) to remove a windshield frame and door hinges from a Suzuki Samurai, you can consider yourself almost an expert. Those particular jobs are horrible, you have to really beat the living heck out of the screws. And the truck. And your hands. Old Mustang door latches pale by comparison.
Of course at some point the screws might getstripped beyond help, then your best recourse would be to just drill them out. Sears and others sell bits just for stripped screws but they don't seem to work very well with an impact driver and #2 Philips screws. Darnit.
The better impact drivers are equipped with a 3/8" drive head which you put various screw bits on. So if you have one of these you already have a Philips bit on a 3/8" socket which you could use with a ratchet if you liked. A plus to this design is that you can put any 3/8" drive socket right on the end of the impact. If you just want a Philips bit on a socket to use with a ratchet, any number of tool suppliers can sell you your choice of them.
Good luck!

MustangConvert1967

I tried the big screwdriver, the three pound hammer and the impact driver etc. These wasted my time.


Here is my tip to you ...


First I ordered Chrome Scott Drake Striker plates from CJ Pony Parts for the car and I had no interested in retaining the originals in any shape or form. :-)


1. I took frog tape (painters non stick paint) and taped it around the original plate on all sides for about three inches.
2. I then took some duct table and covered the green tape to ensure no damage to my paint.
3. I took my black and decker 5 inch grinder that I use for a cut off and grinder and left the grinder wheel on the unit. I cut above but not in the center of the no removable permanent pain in the bum Ford bolts on my 1967 Mustang convertible and ground again above the center of the bolt area in a straight line cut. (Do top and bottom)
4. I then took a common screw driver and tapped in the cut area to get the recently sliced area and removed the middle striker area.
5. I lightly tapped the area around the top and removed.
6. I took a pair of vice grips and locked on both screws or half screws and they turned out easy. (you may need to take your finger in the center of the place area underneath and pull towards you to get a better bite on the half bolt)
7. Take your new striker plates and install. ( I adjusted mine in a little and needed to add some touch up ever so slightly around the section.
(The Tape and covering worked with no scuffing or scratches as I had put a couple pieces of duct tape around to insure no over cutting etc.)


So folks this is my way of removing it and it worked perfectly. I wish I would of applied this process to the first side where I wasted three hours trying tapping, screw driver, and almost welded but did not want to have heat bubble my paint.


Good Luck!


Jeff with the 1967 Mustang Convertible....