I've been reading alot, and it seems theres many different ways to prep for paint. I wanna use something like POR15 or Rust Bullet, and primer my car. Im going to rent a media blaster and blast the entire car sometime in the future. Immediatly afterwards I want to primer the car (preferably not with rattle can primer) maybe ad a rust inhibator and then on the inside Ill add in a sealant/deadener. Whats the best process to do this? And product to use? Should it be blast, prime, then por15/RB or blast, por15/RB then prime? And how about the engine bay? I want it to look good in black, but what should I use for the inside and how best to do it?

 

You dont need to bother with the POR15 if you media blast all the surface rust off, and replace all the thinned or rusted out sections. Epoxy primer acts as a sealer and is a great base upon which to use high build or most types of paints.

You have to use a decent gun and have temperature over 50F to spray epoxy primers, they wont react and harden if its colder than 50F. They are sandable and not terribly expensive.

Read the threads on media blasting, you dont want to use sand or coarse abrasives on outer body panels like fenders, doors, and quaters. That stuff will work well in jambs and on suspension pieces and areas under the car. Soda blasting is the best for the outer sheetmetal.

If you use POR15, you can prime right over it, and reportedly paint over it as well. That is what the POR means, Paint Over Rust. I prefer to clean all the old paint, rust, and grunge off before I put anything down. Wipe it all down with thinner so there is no oily residue or dust on the metal, then lay down the primer. If you have oil or silicon on the metal from your hands or a car wash liquid, you will get fisheyes in the paint and you will have to go back to bare metal to fix them.

Right now there are scads of body work and paint articles in car magazines, its the time of the year when most of us cant drive them, so we tend to start doing body work. Its also cooler with all the protective gear needed when blasting or painting.. 90-110F is kinda tough on you when you are sandblasting.. Pick up a mag, even if it isnt a Mustang or Ford mag, and read the articles in it. I just got one issue of Super Chevy that has a great series of articles in it about body work. HOTROD has an extra out right now that is all body work and detailing. CARCRAFT.com has articles in there about it as well. Do some research on it before you start, the end result will be much nicer.

 

I have the mags, but they are pretty much:
We blasted the car with sand
We primed it with grey primer
We painted it
Final Product

They don't really give details on the primer, what to use what not to use.

 

If i just want a cheap solid color, AND easy, can i just sand down the paint/clear on their now till its smoother, then primer right over the old paint? then fillin any small dips and primer again, then paint it like that? like take to macco for a 200$ job, i just want it one color and no rust! -Jon

 

I am using NASON stuff.. Its local and not terrible expensive. Seems to be working for me. Also known as DuPont. if thats all it is, you are reading the wrong mags.. lol.

http://www.carcraft.com/howto/cheap_...ing/index.html
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/body

some light reading for you..

 

you can get these dvds they are pretty good but they don't cover basecoat/ clearcoat paint jobs. They are good for someone who has not painted professionaly.
http://vintagecars.about.com/gi/dyna...estoration.com

 

Check this sight, loads of info on bodywork.

www.hotrodders.com

 

you can't use por-15 over primer (it won't adhere to it - did this and had to strip the primer off). If the metal is fine, I would almost just use the rust neutralizes as the last stage before using the epoxy primer and you should be good and you can paint out the whole thing in a day (the por-15 is put on 2 coats and then you can use a "wet coat" of primer after the 2nd coat is tack free and primer and go from there as well.........)