I am full of questions today....Sorry.I found out my exhaust manifolds are better left fora professional to take off so I don't have to worry about snapping a bolt of in the block. Anyways. I have a '68' 302 2V and on the driver side exhaust manifold there is a wire that goes from there to the carburator. (I'm assuming it's for the choke to tell the carburator when the engine is heated up)2 part question coming..... A. If I get new headers do they come with this attachment for the wire and B. If so, I want to replace it but don't know what it's called to look for a replacement. Any help would be appreciated. Thank again, Scott

 

If you take your time and have patience you can remove the mainfilds yourself without snapping off the bolts. Use lots of PBBLASTER, a small wrench or socket and heat if needed. I figured the same thing as you before I tried mine. I was surprised that habout half came loose with out chemical intervention. I applied several generous applications of PB BLaster the the remaining bolts and all but two worked loose. THe remaining two took a couple of cycles from the heat wrench before they finally came free. I recommend the small wrench so that you are not tempted to apply too much force, that is what causes old bolts to break.

 

I applied a bunch of Liquid Wrench and let it set for 24 hours, then I turned the car on and let the manifolds get nice and hot. One problem I had was the 1/2" wrench was to small and the 9/16 had too much play in it. Same with the mm. The 13 was too small and the 14 has too much play. I tryed the 9/16 and 14mm and they start to slip on the bolt head. And the next worse thing from snapping them is stripping them. UGH. The only thing easy on this car so far was changing the power steering pump dip stick.....

 

The wire is not a wire, its an asbestos covered tube, that goes into your choke, it's to heat up the choke pull off. Get an electric choke, or a manual, or depending on your ability, take the thing and throw it in the trash. Use the accelerator pump until it warms up.
Breaking a bolt off in the head is not really a big deal. The bolt is rusted to the manifold not the head. if you break it off in the head it will most likely come out easy with a small chizzel and tap, tap , tap around in a circle until it comes out. Done it a few times, The first time I did it I was upset, but then it came out easy, the next time I just broke it off and it came out easy, never worried about after that.

 

Try 6 point shallow sockets rather than wrenches. Sometimes they work better on the heads that are rusted away.

Just FYI, have used liquidwrench and PB-Blaster and the PB is the superior product. Half and hour and most stuff comes loose, if you dont get to it right away it will still be loose in a few months. They sell it at WalMart now..so its even easier to find..lol

 

Hhhmm, electric choke.Do they make them for a 2100 Autolight Carb or do I have to buy a new carb? Asbestos you say, guess I should stop chewing on it. Thanks for the info, I will go buy some PB-Blaster on lunch and spray the hell out of it. I'll pray I don't hear/feel a SNAP but if I do, I know I can always try to chisel it out. Thanks for the info.....

 

SXS
Yes they make an electric choke for the autolite, Just about and auto parts store would have one.
Take off the black thing-y with the 3 screw thing-ys and replace the black thing-y with a black thing-y with a wire comming out of it, Take a guess where the wire goes.

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I'm going to guess the wire thing-y goes to the temperature sending unit. I'm wrong aren't I? Damn, I'm sooo stupid. ****[sm=headbang.gif]

 

You can chew on asbestos just fine. Just don't breathe in the dust......................

 

I searched Mustangs Unlimited, NPD, CJ Pony & Year One and can't find an electric choke conversion kit for anything other than a Holly or Demon Carburator...