68chicagocoupe

I am in need of help, I can't figure out if this linkage is correct. I have a 68 coupe, 289 AUTO. I installed a new performer intake and carb, and I used the adapter from Edelbrock. Please someone tell me if this is correct. It seems to me the spring needs to attach to the black kickdown, but when attached the spring rubs the linkage and prevents good movement. Thanks for your help!

rmodel65

spring shouldnt be hooked up to the kick down its made to return the car to idle

68chicagocoupe

Sorryshould I attach the spring to the area where the black kick down is. That is what the directions are showing, but the spring then rubs against the linkage. Please help.

NorCalTroy

Actually, I think that spring is the one that came with the Edelbrock kick down adapter kit (part 1483) isn't it? In that case it is for the kick down lever. I just installed an Edelbrock intake manifold and carburetor on my 1969 Mach 1 (351W). I didn't use a spring on the kick down lever (returned fine without it), but I did use a generic throttle return spring attached to the bottom of the throttle lever and then back (towards the firewall) to the throttle cable bracket. It looks like our throttle cables are different though. Mine was a cable, yours looks like a solid rod. There are two different springs designed to pull two different items (throttle and kick down). I can take pictures tonight when I get home if you would like. I would think that as long as the throttle and kick down lever return to where they are supposed to be, any method you can get to work will be fine.

deadcarnahans

Why didn't you paint your new manifold?

68chicagocoupe

Nor...pics would be excellent! And you are right, you are the second person today to tell me I should not have 2 rods even know this is an AUTO. Lokar was his solution, any thoughts?

deadcarnahans

I don't like having any more stuff than needed hooked to the carb. It requires a heavier spring and adds to a 'heavy' pedal feel. Don't waste money on Lokar cables. I see nothing wrong with your set up as longs as it is adjusted correctly and not binding up.
I would suggest trolling the local junkyards and looking at OEM type kickdown linkages. Maybe get some ideas.
After dark I can get 780AM , the weather sounds a bit nip there these days.
I like the new model RR at the MSI, too cool!

NorCalTroy

OK, I took pictures of the linkages and springs on my Edlebrock Performer carburetor. I probably wouldn't go to the expense of buying a different throttle cable, especally if the one you have works for you. The throttle lever should have a spring on it, for safety reasons if nothing else. I would hate it if my throttle got stuck open, that could be scary! My kickdown lever returned to the forward position fine without the need for a spring so I didn't put one on it. Good luck! Let me know if you need any more pictures.

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68chicagocoupe

thanks a millon for the pics, helps me alot!

Ok, I have no clue why I have the two slid rods vs. one rod & one cable. Will the Lokar kit eliminate this? The one thing I noticed on all the pics here is the spring is located toward the rear of the carb and not the front like I have mine. I am assuming mine is wrong? On a brighter note, I connected the choke tonight and she started right up. Never have I hear a sweeter sound. Besides a waterfall of a leak fromthe banjothat I forgot to tighten, it was great. I rigged it up just tosee it work and basically went to the accessory at the fuse box with a raw wire. I wentto Murrays and the hardware store trying to find a way to plug this wire into the fuse nice and tight and found nothing. Any thoughts guys?

I am leaning towards getting that Lokar kit and eliminating that stupid adapter. Seems like everyone think it functions better this way. Just hate to part with more money than I already have with this part of my project.

NorCalTroy

Taking the pictures was no problem. I don't have any experience with Lokar, so I don't know what the kit consists of. However I still say, if what you have works, why bother spending more money? Also, there could be stock differences between my 1969 and your 1968 or my 351 and your 289. The only reason my throttle return spring goes back is because I was having the same clearance issues that you are. I just found a way that worked with what I had. Good luck!