Upper Control Arm
5th Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,566
From: Marquette Mi
RE: Upper Control Arm
Well the shaft kits are like $10 cheaper than the full arms, then there is the ball joint.. I have nice uppers and the bushings arent bad either, still they are getting replaced.. its good to have spares at the stage Im at with it..lol..
Find out how much difference there is cost wise doing it both ways, then decide if the work is something you want to do.
Find out how much difference there is cost wise doing it both ways, then decide if the work is something you want to do.
1st Gear Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 135
From:
RE: Upper Control Arm
i was considering rebuilding them too .. but when putting all the cost of the rebuild kits , the work , i decided it is more economical to get new ones, beside that they have made the new ones better compared to the originals ( atleast those i will go for)
arthur
arthur
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 151
From: Ohio
RE: Upper Control Arm
If you are going stock repop replacement you are better off rebuilding your old ones. There isn't much to rebuilding these old arms. You would probably only need new grease seals for the shaft end caps, recommend greasable end caps if you don't already have them, and moog ball joints. I rebuild mine. I add 12degrees offset on the balljoint angle, then do the shelby drop but 1 3/4" lower than stock. The stock arm is stronger than the repop stuff. Otherwise, I'd opt for Opentracker, Global West, or Total Control arms.
Thread Starter
I ♥ Acer
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,845
From:
RE: Upper Control Arm
well i got moog shaft and ball joints all together for $50 i was just wondering if i should replace the shell cause i am gunna do the shelby mod and 620lb/in springs but its just DD and the occasional hard corner but thats about it
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 151
From: Ohio
RE: Upper Control Arm
I don't know where i saw it but someone had a problem with a repop arm. They are not stamed to the exact same dimensions. Well, basically everything will blt up the same, shaft, balljoint perch are all in their proper locations but... the stamping shape mear the mounting surface was not accurate.
At these points, the "Chinese" not having a classic Mustang to test fit to make sure tolerances were good left a little bit more material there. This causes a bind at some points of motion between the arm and the shock tower. This bind causes the shaft to tear the arm apart. I cant find the pic online but imagine the shaft still bolted to the shoct tower but the arm not, or the hole that the shaft runs through pulled so hard that it looks like a hook. If I can find it I'll post it.
At these points, the "Chinese" not having a classic Mustang to test fit to make sure tolerances were good left a little bit more material there. This causes a bind at some points of motion between the arm and the shock tower. This bind causes the shaft to tear the arm apart. I cant find the pic online but imagine the shaft still bolted to the shoct tower but the arm not, or the hole that the shaft runs through pulled so hard that it looks like a hook. If I can find it I'll post it.
I ♥ Acer
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 17,565
From:
RE: Upper Control Arm
ORIGINAL: latamud
I don't know where i saw it but someone had a problem with a repop arm. They are not stamed to the exact same dimensions. Well, basically everything will blt up the same, shaft, balljoint perch are all in their proper locations but... the stamping shape mear the mounting surface was not accurate.
At these points, the "Chinese" not having a classic Mustang to test fit to make sure tolerances were good left a little bit more material there. This causes a bind at some points of motion between the arm and the shock tower. This bind causes the shaft to tear the arm apart. I cant find the pic online but imagine the shaft still bolted to the shoct tower but the arm not, or the hole that the shaft runs through pulled so hard that it looks like a hook. If I can find it I'll post it.
I don't know where i saw it but someone had a problem with a repop arm. They are not stamed to the exact same dimensions. Well, basically everything will blt up the same, shaft, balljoint perch are all in their proper locations but... the stamping shape mear the mounting surface was not accurate.
At these points, the "Chinese" not having a classic Mustang to test fit to make sure tolerances were good left a little bit more material there. This causes a bind at some points of motion between the arm and the shock tower. This bind causes the shaft to tear the arm apart. I cant find the pic online but imagine the shaft still bolted to the shoct tower but the arm not, or the hole that the shaft runs through pulled so hard that it looks like a hook. If I can find it I'll post it.
I would opt to rebuild the originals, and certainly have grease zerks in them. I grease my joint occasionally.