Good evening ![/align][/align]My mustang was originally a 3 speed manual converted to a top loader prior to my ownership - I checked the tag on the transmission RUG-AV1, on the casting D2AR-7006-CAand on the bell housing C5DA-6394-A.[/align][/align]Here are my questions / issues :[/align][ol][*]I always have to double clutch to get from 1st to 2nd or from 3rd to 2nd - all other speeds are fine - is it normal? if not could you explain the possible issues?[*]My clutch pedal does not come back all the way when I release it, so I have to pull it back with my foot - does that mean I need to change all the spings and bushings or is it related ot the transmission?[*]When I change gears, the clutching is very short and I just need to "dump" the pedal - I have driven a 65 with a 3 speed manual and it was a totally different experience - so I was wondering whether or not it is an issued and what I could do about it[/ol]
[/align]Thank you in advance for your help - Yes I am a novice but trying to get better ![/align][/align][/align]

[IMG]local://upfiles/62696/648B3A3F580A449B90E0885C4AD2C66D.jpg[/IMG]

 

I always have to double clutch to get from 1st to 2nd or from 3rd to 2nd - all other speeds are fine - is it normal? if not could you explain the possible issues?
Worn sychro gear in second gear, exacerbated by your point 3.

My clutch pedal does not come back all the way when I release it, so I have to pull it back with my foot - does that mean I need to change all the spings and bushings or is it related ot the transmission?

Depends on how they set it up when they swapped out the 3 speed. 66 used a mechanical clutch mechanism as distinct from later cars that use hydraulic or cable clutches. There is a linkage arrangement from the pedal, thru the firewall and down to the side of the block that then actuates an arm going into the bell housing to work the clutch. If this is not straight or is out of whack to go around exhaust or power steering ram, it can cause you problems. You need to get someone to have a look under the car.

When I change gears, the clutching is very short and I just need to "dump" the pedal - I have driven a 65 with a 3 speed manual and it was a totally different experience - so I was wondering whether or not it is an issued and what I could do about it

This can be either a really worn clutch or an adjustment issue or part of (2) above.
Again, you may need help from someone who knows how to adjust the clutch mechanism. Try this first to see if there is an improvement. It will also help with your second gear issue in the short term. Longer term I'd be rebuilding the gearbox.
hope this helps

 

Sounds like your clutch isn't adjusted properly. Get it adjusted right and I'll wager the shifting will be a lot nicer. If the clutch doesn't get all the way disengaged, your gears will grind and it will be harder to shift.

 

I have no input on the matter, I just wanted to say that's a cherry-looking stang you got there buddy, she's a beauty.

[8D]

 

Proof positive there is no such thiing as a 'good-used-4-speed'. There are good 4-speeds and used 4-speeds but they are mutually exclusive.
Your experience sounds like what I went through with the stock T-10 and then the top-loader. I ended-up selling both and installing a 1996 World Class T-5. (in 1996) By the time you buy all the neccessary parts to properly fix the thing you will be able to buy and install a new 5-speed.

 

Thank you all for this good and quick feedback - I will start with the clutch adjustment and go from there ... may end up re-building the transmission or changing it .... we will see - will keep you posted!

 

You said the pedal does not come back to the top without you pulling it back with your foot and that it also seems to not be disengaging properly. I think your bell-crank is beginning to tear at the weld seam. Happens all the time with older cars and cars with stronger clutches. That is why the BOSS cars had a bell-crank that had the arms large enough for the pivot bar to go through them and then be welded all the way around. If memory serves me the arm was one piece with the bar through it. Could be wrong though...it has been 30 years since I had that car.

Let us know if that is it, OK.

 

Thanks Mike - bellcrank is the same as equalizer bar, correct? I am planning on changing all the bushings and bearings as well as cleaning all the mechanical components between the pedal and the release lever so hopefully I will see any damaged weld ... I will then work on clutch adjustment ... if it does not adress the issues, than transmission shop ... not planning on changing the transmission at this point

I took a picture of the clutch release lever and do have a question : is leakage at the dust boot normal / common?

Thanks


[IMG]local://upfiles/62696/13170009C0024C5896BADF423921AA39.jpg[/IMG]

 

That leak is from some where else there is nothing in the bellhousing to leak except the front seal in the trans.

 

+1 mustanglover66, but wouldn't therear main seal on the engine more likely?

That bar in the photo connecting to the clutch release lever...whats that called? Thats the one I had trouble with in my car. it was moved to go round an ill fitting header, so it wasnt straight onto the clutch lever. Meant the pedal was heavy and adjustments not as effective. all the wrong angles...in the end the pressure on it folded it in the middle and it became completely inoperative.