Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

Friend in need

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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 06:56 PM
  #11  
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mat11089
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Default RE: Friend in need

So were gonna change the points the same kind of electronic that i have.Crane Cams xr-i hasnt let me down.
Old Apr 15, 2007 | 07:02 PM
  #12  
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Default RE: Friend in need

ORIGINAL: paddy187

I wouldn't use carb cleaner for the checking, My rebuild kit on my carb said that it damages gaskets, I think they mean on the accelrator pump and stuff (the rubber ones) JustI would be carefully and use the start spray stuff.
Carb cleaner won't damage the gaskets if they are not leaking because it won't get on the gasket. If it does get on the gasket, then the gasket needs replacing anyway. You must be very brave to use starter fluid on a running engine.
Old Apr 15, 2007 | 07:06 PM
  #13  
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mat11089
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Definitely agree with you soaring.Im not about to use starting fluid on a hot running engine and one that is not mine at that.
Old Apr 16, 2007 | 06:21 PM
  #14  
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kalli
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Default RE: Friend in need

if you have points then check if they're sitting on their positionn or if they can be moved.
Don't get me wrong. the points need to open and close.
But where the points are sitting should only be adjusted by the vacuum advance.
in my distributor the plate where they sit on got loose, which resulting in dwell jumping around and that results in timing jumping up and down or complete stall.

So check the dwell (or gap first). Check on the timing as well if that has changed from your initial 8 degrees. If it's now something different then that.

Any change in dwell or timing might have resulted from such a loose contact breaker plate.
Had the exact same problem here half year ago

Kalli
Old Apr 16, 2007 | 06:35 PM
  #15  
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Default RE: Friend in need

point taken about starter fluid
Old Apr 16, 2007 | 08:43 PM
  #16  
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Default RE: Friend in need

Kalli is on the mark.
Old Apr 16, 2007 | 08:51 PM
  #17  
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Yeah, if the plate is loose that is an altogether different problem, and turning the dizzy to set the point gap is not the way to do it. I know we have had this conversation before and have had differing opinions which is OK, but I set the timing first, then change the points and set the gap, then adjust the dwell, then I go back and re-check the timing. Whichever system you have that works best for you is the way to go. Just keep in mind that all three adjustments have to take place to get the engine timed correctly, point gap set and dwell set. Now, save yourself some grief and get the 70 buck pertronix module and you won't need to set the gap or the dwell. Just the timing.
Old Apr 16, 2007 | 10:58 PM
  #18  
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exactly the plan soaring.thanks everyone
Old Apr 16, 2007 | 11:22 PM
  #19  
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Default RE: Friend in need

I've always heard that you are supposed to set the point gap before you set the timing. If you change the gap after youset the timing, then the timing will change. Glen, when you use your method, do you notice a timing change?

Oh yeah... +1 on Pertronix.
Old Apr 19, 2007 | 03:44 PM
  #20  
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kalli
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Default RE: Friend in need

still the same with the pertronix. If the plate you mount it on is loose then the timing will jump around the place.
So make sure that when you bolt it on, the only thing that can physically move the point or pertronix is the vacuum advance.
suck on the hose connected to vacuum advance. the point or pertronix should move. You should not be able to move it into any other direction than that by hand.

I don't know if that is clear. Not native english ... why didn't I make a video of it when it was broke in mine ....

for the dwell and ignition timing:
change in dwell will change ignition timing
chenage in ignition timing (by turning the distri) will NOT change dwell. it's practically the same as moving the rotor a few degrees back or advanced. Just the other way round. You move the distri, not the rotor. the max and min distance the points will have from the humps is not changed.

But yes agreed. When everything is adjusted, recheck everything
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