Lower control arm
Is the lower control arm mounting bolt the eccentric kind? Or are all of the camber adjustments made at the upper control arm? Am I going to have to take those da**** front coil springs out AGAIN? (That would make it #7) I'm looking at trying to put a crudehome front alignment (both front wheels look in opposite directions and the left one has a lot of positive camber) on theStang so I can at least drive it around the block and maybe it will help with the sloppiness of the steering.
Camber is adjusted at upper control arm.
From shop manual on '66:
To adjust camber remove or install equal shims at both bolts. Installation of equal shims on the upper control arm moves the ball joint outwards. A 1/16 inch change in shim thickness at both bolts will change the camber angle 1/3degree. The total shim stack thickness at each bolt should not exceed 9/16 inch.
From shop manual on '66:
To adjust camber remove or install equal shims at both bolts. Installation of equal shims on the upper control arm moves the ball joint outwards. A 1/16 inch change in shim thickness at both bolts will change the camber angle 1/3degree. The total shim stack thickness at each bolt should not exceed 9/16 inch.
Assuming it's the 65, there is no adjustment on the lower arm except the strut rod, no eccentric bolt. And why would you want to take out the coil springs again? There are spacers used on the upper 'A'arm bolts into the engine compartment for adjustment. That's it. You unloosen the nuts in the engine compartment and add or remove spacers on both or either of the bolts in the wheel well. The tie rods get your wheels pointingahead. If you have new lower arms (highly recomended), replace the upper arm shafts, upper ball jointsand have new saddles, you should be there. The only other area that might cause a problem is some frame distortion.
Jim
Jim
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