Mine still cancels, but I wouldn't go to the trouble of taking the steering wheel off to replace the turn signal unless the brake lights or something else didn't work. Although it is easy to type that you only need a steering wheel puller and it is an easy operation, it ain't.

 

Thanks Soaring .I have the part to fix minebut I think I will leave it alone until it is really needed to be fixed.I have signals but won't cancel and I can deal with that.

 

I learned to drive by sticking my arm out the window to signal stop, and left and right turn. Clicking the signal arm after a turn ain't no big deal.

 

I can't belive this, but I'm gonna have to disagree with you, Soaring. Maybe my '68s are different, but honestly, it wasn't that hard to do the switches. Time consuming, yes. Lots of cussing on the first one, yes. Beyond that, it was pretty easy to get the wheel off (with a puller), the old switch out, the new one in and then reassemble. The cussing happened because of the way you have to thread the wires down, get the old connector off the old switch and put the new wires into it. Other than that first time, it has been easy because I know how to do it and think ahead.

One good tip if anyone is going to do swap out their turn signal switch: Make sure that if there are any spare wires that maybe go to options your car doesn't have, you tape off the ends or tie them off somehow. My husband did my first switch (as a favor to me) but he left the spare wires with the bare metal connectors on the ends. Eventually one jiggled and jammed itself far enough into the backside of my ignition switch at the power wire that it started a nice, smelly electrical fire while I was driving to the grocery store. Luckily, it only toasted the unused wires before I figured out the smoke was coming from under my dash and got the car shut off. It could have been much, much worse.

 

Procedure:
1. Remove steering wheel.
2. Disconnect connector at base of column.
3. Remove retainer bracket to bottom of dash.
4. Slide steering colum tube off of steering column.
5. Draw a diagram of what wire color goes to which pin. This is important.
6. Use either a contact removal tool (NPD p/n 957-2, $13.50) or a section of thinwall tubing that you can get at a hobby shop, to remove the contacts. That connector housing is not available aftermarket so be careful.
7. Remove the three retaining screws at the upper end of the shaft. You may find it necessary to remove the upper 'cone' to get the wires out and in.
8. Remove old wire harness. There is a rubber/vinyl sleeve that is used as a wire protector at the lower end that can be slid off over the loose wires
9. Install new harness. They cost between $30 and $40 for a 65-66 and $80 for a 64 1/2 (cars with a generator).
10. Using your wiring sketch, install contacts in lower connector block. They will 'click' when installed correctly. Give each a tug.
11. Reinstall as you took it apart.
I recomend that you paint the column befor assembly and get a new grommet, seal, lower tube insulator and a new sleeve for the upper bearing. As long as you got it out, do it right.
Jim

 

[quote]ORIGINAL: toolwench


I can't belive this, but I'm gonna have to disagree with you, Soaring. Maybe my '68s are different, but honestly, it wasn't that hard to do the switches. Time consuming, yes. [quote] Agreed. It's aint hard but it is a PITA cause it's time consuming.