351C
Shopping for a Cleveland is easy... sorta.
1)You do not want to bore a block more than .030" so, if you are buying one ready to run, make sure it was not bored over .030! If you are purchasing one to rebuild, shop around for one that has never been bored, you can find them.
2)Moroso makes a oiling modification kit, it is cheap, use it if you are building up an engine.
3)Clevelands are more expensive to buildthan Windsors, but... if you want something different they are the way to go, check out CHI, they make some wicked Cleveland heads. The canted valves are superior to the straight Windsor design.
4)Yes headers can be a pain in the a$$, but Sanderson in South San Fransisco makes some really nice blockhuggers.
5)If you want something different, build a Clevor, Edelbrock now makes intake manifolds for this application, making it easy to build a Clevor or a Boss 302. This way you can have the stout Windsor bottom end with limitless aftermarket possibilities for the rotating assembly, and then top it off with a set of CHI 3V heads for something stupid fast.
6)Ditch the Cleveland only thermostat and brass bypass cone. The Pantera guys run a block off plate and a conventional thermostat, keeps things simple, and eliminates the possibility of destroying your engine because of a bad bypass.
1)You do not want to bore a block more than .030" so, if you are buying one ready to run, make sure it was not bored over .030! If you are purchasing one to rebuild, shop around for one that has never been bored, you can find them.
2)Moroso makes a oiling modification kit, it is cheap, use it if you are building up an engine.
3)Clevelands are more expensive to buildthan Windsors, but... if you want something different they are the way to go, check out CHI, they make some wicked Cleveland heads. The canted valves are superior to the straight Windsor design.
4)Yes headers can be a pain in the a$$, but Sanderson in South San Fransisco makes some really nice blockhuggers.
5)If you want something different, build a Clevor, Edelbrock now makes intake manifolds for this application, making it easy to build a Clevor or a Boss 302. This way you can have the stout Windsor bottom end with limitless aftermarket possibilities for the rotating assembly, and then top it off with a set of CHI 3V heads for something stupid fast.
6)Ditch the Cleveland only thermostat and brass bypass cone. The Pantera guys run a block off plate and a conventional thermostat, keeps things simple, and eliminates the possibility of destroying your engine because of a bad bypass.
The utter lack of anything even remotely resembling a fact regarding costs in this thread makes me want to puke.
It is always cheapest to build what you own.
If you don't own either and have to buy all new, buy what you want/like.
I will of course back this up with facts that it took me less than 5 minutes of research to assemble here in a nice nifty visual aid.
I of course assumed you would want to make a stroker either way with relatively good parts, with the pistons on the arms, have it all balance, get a new balancer, flexplate...that kind of stuff:

Feel free to call me anything you think I may have missed.
It is always cheapest to build what you own.
If you don't own either and have to buy all new, buy what you want/like.
I will of course back this up with facts that it took me less than 5 minutes of research to assemble here in a nice nifty visual aid.
I of course assumed you would want to make a stroker either way with relatively good parts, with the pistons on the arms, have it all balance, get a new balancer, flexplate...that kind of stuff:

Feel free to call me anything you think I may have missed.
ORIGINAL: dodgestang
The utter lack of anything even remotely resembling a fact regarding costs in this thread makes me want to puke.
It is always cheapest to build what you own.
If you don't own either and have to buy all new, buy what you want/like.
I will of course back this up with facts that it took me less than 5 minutes of research to assemble here in a nice nifty visual aid.
I of course assumed you would want to make a stroker either way with relatively good parts, with the pistons on the arms, have it all balance, get a new balancer, flexplate...that kind of stuff:

Feel free to call me anything you think I may have missed.
The utter lack of anything even remotely resembling a fact regarding costs in this thread makes me want to puke.
It is always cheapest to build what you own.
If you don't own either and have to buy all new, buy what you want/like.
I will of course back this up with facts that it took me less than 5 minutes of research to assemble here in a nice nifty visual aid.
I of course assumed you would want to make a stroker either way with relatively good parts, with the pistons on the arms, have it all balance, get a new balancer, flexplate...that kind of stuff:

Feel free to call me anything you think I may have missed.
i think his representation was to acheive the same HP goal, and frankly - if you dump 800 bucks into some C heads of any flavor they are going to most likely outperform the 1500.00 he has listed for the edelbrocks and the light prep work on those. so lets say you bolt the edelbrocks on right outta the box, your still 175.00 cheaper with the cleve - not to mention you'll have something a bit different.
btw,
o rly?? can you provide a link please!!!!!!!
btw,
build a Clevor, Edelbrock now makes intake manifolds for this application
ORIGINAL: Decurion
Look how much aftermarket stuff there is for a Kleveland, then look how much stuff there is for the WINdsor. The clevelands had **** poor blocks and marginal oiling systems (maybe Im thinking of the modified here...) on top of being heavier. They are also wider, and so not nearly as many header options. Unless your car came with a cleveland AND you have some reason to keep it, go windsor and dont look back. Theyre cheaper, lighter, and have WAY more parts available. Sure the heads may not be as good, but thats a whole lot cheaper and easier to replace than finding out your cleveland block has pourosity and core shift problems.
Look how much aftermarket stuff there is for a Kleveland, then look how much stuff there is for the WINdsor. The clevelands had **** poor blocks and marginal oiling systems (maybe Im thinking of the modified here...) on top of being heavier. They are also wider, and so not nearly as many header options. Unless your car came with a cleveland AND you have some reason to keep it, go windsor and dont look back. Theyre cheaper, lighter, and have WAY more parts available. Sure the heads may not be as good, but thats a whole lot cheaper and easier to replace than finding out your cleveland block has pourosity and core shift problems.
http://www.projectbronco.com/Technic...e_build_up.htm
http://home.earthlink.net/~bubbaf250/perf/perf01.html
http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/i...00_Engine.html
https://fordmuscle.com/archives/2007...d400/index.php
ORIGINAL: 66GTKFB
I see that you 'cooked the books' by about $700 using the heads. Nice spreadsheet though.
Jim
I see that you 'cooked the books' by about $700 using the heads. Nice spreadsheet though.
Jim
The only thing you give up is weight
Stock 351w weighs 525 lbs
Stock 351c weighs 550 lbs
Source: http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod/engine.html
If I float an 'opinion' and say that after taking the cast heads off the 351w and installing the aluminum you will net out at 25 lbs less (500lbs total) that puts 50lbs difference between the 2 motors. Another 'opinion' is that 100 lbs is worth .100 second (tenth of a second) in the quarter mile so 50lbs would equate out to about .050 second faster in the quarter mile. Unless you are a professional I don't think .05 seconds is going to matter match to you. If you are doing brackets, consistency and reaction time are what you need. If you are doing heads up...reaction time and picking the right opponent is key
. I will admit that if you have everything dialed in and you keep running a 12.03 in the 1/4 loosing 50 lbs would be swell to help get into you the 11s. I have the same problem with my dually; 15.03 consistently....I wanted in the 14s so bad that I lost 45 lbs of personal weight to try and help (which it didn't so I don't have as much faith in that rule of thumb as I used to). If this motor is for autox or road racing a properly tuned chassis/suspension will overcome 50 lbs more in the front. If this is for a street car...I highly doubt you would ever even notice the extra weigth in the front.And to the point I failed to clarify, my spreadsheet quantifies using readily available parts to build for the same HP level in a 351c vs 351w. There are obviously lots of little things not included...like gaskets, bolts, etc....it is my opinion that the majority of these are common in nature and while they would increase the totals, would not offer any significant $$ advantage to one vs another since these items would be the same $$ for either block. I've owned both motors and I like both motors. I would build either motor depending on what I had, because the $$ ar close enough that if you add sourcing a block into the equation for one and not the other it makes it cheaper to build the one you already own.
Here are the Edelbrock CLEVOR and BOSS intake part numbers, finally you can build a Clevor and soon you can build a Boss without any headaches.
Clevor 351W.... Edelbrock part #7183...on the market
Boss 302 intake...Edelbrock part # 7129...not released
Check out CHI for some really nice Cleveland heads, Edelbrock also makes some, both are about $2K a pair.
http://www.chiheads.com/index.php
Clevor 351W.... Edelbrock part #7183...on the market
Boss 302 intake...Edelbrock part # 7129...not released
Check out CHI for some really nice Cleveland heads, Edelbrock also makes some, both are about $2K a pair.
http://www.chiheads.com/index.php
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
73Cleveland
Archive - Want To Buy Ads
1
Oct 23, 2005 05:32 PM




