Surface rust removal
Hey guys-
Im at that stage where I need to get some serious surface rust off (as you can see in my sig
)and Im not sure if i should be media blasting first, getting a sanding wheel, or what. If media blasting what type? I know ive read quite a few things on the forum about what different medias there are.I figure once ive gotten the car down to some good metal then i can start welding. Any comments very much appriciated.
Thanks
Im at that stage where I need to get some serious surface rust off (as you can see in my sig
)and Im not sure if i should be media blasting first, getting a sanding wheel, or what. If media blasting what type? I know ive read quite a few things on the forum about what different medias there are.I figure once ive gotten the car down to some good metal then i can start welding. Any comments very much appriciated.Thanks
Make sure that the shop doing the media blasting does the inside roof, that's the one area they seem to forget. The only drawback is that the media (plastic, walnut and some new stuff) will tend to accumilate in hard to get places, front quarters, door bottoms, etc, and has a tendancy to pick up dirt from the process and then the residueretains moisture - and then rust. The remedy is to blowout all the little nooks yourself with compressed air when you get it home.Make arrangements to get the car primed immediately after the media blasting, like the same day. Don'tget itdone on a rainy day either.
Jim
Jim
Yea, you need media blasting. You should take the car apart totally for best results. (glass, interior, seals, gaskets, weatherstriping, latches, handles, drivetrain, engine, etc.) This will allow the blaster to get into all of the tight areas, and under gaskets, etc.
Hire an experienced blaster, as much damage (warpage) can be done to body panels due to "spot overheating" if the blaster lingers in one spot too long. All I have ever used is silica sand, but that is all but illegal to use now, I have heard good things about baking soda, it leaves a surface that is not so prone to rust, and is very easy on the steel.
Hire an experienced blaster, as much damage (warpage) can be done to body panels due to "spot overheating" if the blaster lingers in one spot too long. All I have ever used is silica sand, but that is all but illegal to use now, I have heard good things about baking soda, it leaves a surface that is not so prone to rust, and is very easy on the steel.
I did mine with aircraft stripper on the body , propane torch anda putty knife on the inner fender area. Took forever! I learned not to be so cheap and pay a good blaster next time around. 



