I recently purchased Tom Monroe's How to Rebuild Small Block Ford Engines. After reading/skimming through it, I realized two things: [1] My burning of about a quart of oil every 500 miles qualifies as a SERIOUS PROBLEM and [2] Tearing into an engine is WAY over my head.

So after speaking with a recommended mechanic (Northern Virginia), he estimated the cost of rebuilding my 1973 302 at about $1,500. At which point, he suggested I consider putting ina ford crate engine for a $3,000-$4,000. I've got no attachment to the engine, since its not stock anyhow.

I'm leaning towards the rebuild for a couple of reasons. One is that I really only use the mustang for "cruising" where I don't need copious amounts of horsepower, and second that I could use the money I save to put towards the other items on my to-do list (new driveable suspension, disc brakes, 8" rearend...)

Thoughts? Do those prices sound *about* right?

What's holding me back is the concern of "concealed conditions" once he starts the tear down and realizing there's other problems. Oh, and of course the possibility I'll always want more horsepower...

Thanks.

 

you got the book, rebuild it yourself. take your time, and pick the parts you want to make it right. if you wanna save cash, you can get a compelte rebuild kit with better pistons and a slightly larger cam from northern auto parts for less than 300 bucks. add 200 for a valve job, 100 for boring, 100 for reground crank, 100 for misc crap at the autoparts or hardware store..... 800 bucks and you have a completely rebuilt motor that you can take pride in knowing you built yourself.

 

course thats assuming he has a engine hoist and stand and actually has the time to do it

 

I would recommend just doing it yourself. I had very little wrenching skills before I purchased my 68. I converted it from 6 cyl to v8, EFI V8 and did all the work myself. I purchased the same engine book you did. Read it twice and then rebuilt the engine myself. It started on the first try, even with the EFI conversion. Talk about empowering! It really is not that bad, just take your time and focus on the details. I don't have a hoist, rented one for $40 for the removal and same amount for the install. I purchased an engine stand for $45. The real question is do you have the time to do it right? Count on a day to pull it, few days at the machine shop, a day to rebuild and another to install it. Maybe less time if you are quicker than me.

Start by taking the engine out yourself and then evaluate how you feel about tackling the rebuild. Good luck.

 

The rebuild cost sounds reasonable but does the crate motor costs include installation?
Jim

 

I dohave the time to invest, as I'm lucky enough to have another form of transportation.

You all are certainly inspiring me to really think about tackling this! Can you all think of any additional specialized tools I would need for a rebuild? My tool chest is rather basic (but usually effective). I'm trying gather as much info as possible...especially related to dollars.

Lastly, the crate engine did not include installation. However, I was told that is a rather simple procedure, especially compared to the rebuild.

Looks like I've got some soul searching to do... Thanks again everyone.

 

That sounds like Ford's GT40 crate, 340bhp I believe, GT40x alum heads, b or e cam(you get to choose) 9.0:1 static compression. Comes with a warranty, that's just for the engine. Decent engine, but you can build something better for the same amount of money. But you REALLY need to decide whether you want power or cost effectiveness. You can't build a cheap engine that's reliable, then make it powerful later, it does NOT work that way. The saying is "Cheap, powerful, reliable, pick 2" If you want power, build it for power, and use good parts, it won't be cheap but it will run well and be reliable. If you build something on the cheap now then later on it will either never be powerful, or never be reliable. The engine has to be built for what it's going to do, so decide, is it gonna be a putter around daily driver, or a ***** to the wall high horsepower daily driver? Either of those will be reliable, but one will be cheap and the other won't. Or you can build a high hp daily driver that'll fall apart in 50k miles. I chose to build my own(for a pretty penny mind you) that has excellent power, with good mileage and very good reliability. I can drive it every day and with decent tires should be able to get it into the low 12's on a 1/4 mi strip. But it cost some $$$. Remember, you have to pay to play

 

Your first step is to locate a machine shop that can (and will) bore out your cylinders. And that's an assumption that you willneed a cylinder bore. That shop should also remove the ridge that builds up at the top of the cylinders.
To be truthful, have a shop do you a short block, cam, crank and pistons installed, and you finish the rebuild, heads, manifold, timing cover, etc. And definately get the engine ballanced.
Jim

 

As evidenced by the posts in this thread, there are so many ways you can go with this it'll make your head spin. If there were one 'right' answer it would be easy. If your tools are very basic, butyou like the thought of working on your own engine, Jim's suggestion of finishing off a short block is a nice compromise between drop-in and full build up. Finishing up a short block is pretty straight forward with basic hand tools and a torque wrench. If you want the convenience of a 'finished' product that you can still get your hands dirty with, a new Ford Racing crate engine is certainly a nice choice.

If you are thinking of the crate engine, I can give you my experience as I just used one in my '65 fastback. For starters, there is no provision in the block for the stock mechanical clutch linkage for the early models. You can use a bolt-on bracket or a hydraulic or cable setup, but it is something to consider. Also, although the timing cover does have a provision for it, there is no fuel pump eccentric on the cam. It uses a two-piece which you'd have to pull the timing cover to install, with the part being somewhere between $50-100. Your alternative, which I did, is to use an electric fuel pump which will cost you a bit over $100 in parts for the pump and a nifty mount from Ron Morris performance. You will need to replace the really cool looking EFI valve covers with some for a carb. You will need an intake manifold. You will need to swap out the rear-sump oil pan and pickup for a front sump. You will need to swap the supplied reverse rotation water pump for a standard one if you plan to use your stock accessories and v-belt. I think you'll also have to swap the balancer for one that will accept your v-belt pulley. It comes with a flywheel, but if you have an automatic, you'll have to get a 50oz. imbalance flexplate.

I'm probably missing something, but I can't think of it off of the top of my head. For me, this engine made perfect sense. I already was using the serpentine belt setup from my '85 Mustang and I ran an electric fuel pump so I didn't have to crack the timing cover or swap anything other than the oil pan and valve covers. As for performance, it is certainly more than I need and I can take comfort that I have all new parts with a roller cam, and most importantly, a one-piece rear main seal (I have some history here ). BTW, I found a link on another site that will deliver this engine to your door for $3700.

Good luck with your decision.

 

That's the nice thing about having an engine build/building one yourself, you can get what you need if a crate has/needs other stuff. And yeah, 2 piece rear seals suck. You'll eventually end up leaking like the Titanic. Late model 1pc seal roller blocks are a good block for a build