Used Block Tests/Machining
Thread Starter
5th Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,100
From: Texas Hill Country
Used Block Tests/Machining
What advice do you guys have on building out a new engine from a used block with relation to machining and testing the block. Lets assume the engine has never been bored, but is used. What tests do I need to have done to insure the block is in the best shape it can be in before building it out? What machining should I do before building it out? I have heard of terms like sonic testing, but I am a complete novice at engine rebuilds.
This project will probably be a 351 Cleveland and my target horsepower is 450hp. RPM will not be anything crazy, but should spin up to 5500-6000K. The use will be a weekend toy that will melt tires. No racing and not a daily driver, but should last and hold up to a couple hundred mile drive on the weekends.
Thanks for the info in case I forget later.
This project will probably be a 351 Cleveland and my target horsepower is 450hp. RPM will not be anything crazy, but should spin up to 5500-6000K. The use will be a weekend toy that will melt tires. No racing and not a daily driver, but should last and hold up to a couple hundred mile drive on the weekends.
Thanks for the info in case I forget later.
4th Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,261
From: Concord, NC
RE: Used Block Tests/Machining
I work for a crate engine builder, we use mostly used blocks. Each block gets visually inspected for defects and magna fluxed before machining and pressure tested after honing. Here lately about 40% of the blocks have been junk so the sooner you can find problems in the process the cheaper it cost you. and before you ask we don't do clevelands thats why I didn't sujest us in your other treads. But if you want a stroker 302 or winsor motor we love to talk to you. Heres the link so you know who I'm talking about.http://tandlengines.com/
6th Gear Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,007
From: Citrus County, FL
RE: Used Block Tests/Machining
just tossing this out there, but shouldnt you guys wanna tackle whatever a customer throws your way? i mean, a C isnt a W but a motor is a motor ya know (we were building everything from postal jeep 2.5 GM 4 bangers to dohc japanese V6's to semi truck diesels)
4th Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,261
From: Concord, NC
RE: Used Block Tests/Machining
You would think that but from what I've been told with the retooling cost what they are we just can't do it at least not right now. But I guess if enough people call asking for them he may change his mind.
6th Gear Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 8,162
From:
RE: Used Block Tests/Machining
depends on who builds it and your budget alot of oval racers here have to use oem parts and the way they drive and the hours of hard driving they take should kill the engine it dont
Thread Starter
5th Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,100
From: Texas Hill Country
RE: Used Block Tests/Machining
So, Magnafluxing is a must. What about decking, honing the mains, or checking for bearing alignment? The big question in my mine is what all should be checked out or fixed before a block can be stamped "good"?
6th Gear Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,007
From: Citrus County, FL
RE: Used Block Tests/Machining
honing the mains = checking bearing alignment. 95% of the time they do not need to be align honed, which is good because it will end up giving you a sloppy timing chain unless you get a slightly undersized unit.
magnafluxing uses metal powder with a large electromagnet to detect cracks. they will check the block in the common areas where they crack.
if you REALLY wanted to go a step further (which if the motor currently runs you should not need to) would be a pressure test, to make sure the cooling passages are not going to leak into any place they arent supposed to.
the machine shop can throw a bore guage down a couple cylinders and tell you if they think its gonna clean up at .030, .040, or .060 within about 2 minutes. i personally dont know how meaty the C's are for being able to bore .060...... but if .030 wont make it and .040 will i would have no problem at all going .040 on my own motor. hell, i would most likely have no problem going .060 on my own motor.
magnafluxing uses metal powder with a large electromagnet to detect cracks. they will check the block in the common areas where they crack.
if you REALLY wanted to go a step further (which if the motor currently runs you should not need to) would be a pressure test, to make sure the cooling passages are not going to leak into any place they arent supposed to.
the machine shop can throw a bore guage down a couple cylinders and tell you if they think its gonna clean up at .030, .040, or .060 within about 2 minutes. i personally dont know how meaty the C's are for being able to bore .060...... but if .030 wont make it and .040 will i would have no problem at all going .040 on my own motor. hell, i would most likely have no problem going .060 on my own motor.
I ♥ Acer
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,845
From:
RE: Used Block Tests/Machining
ORIGINAL: my77stang
honing the mains = checking bearing alignment. 95% of the time they do not need to be align honed, which is good because it will end up giving you a sloppy timing chain unless you get a slightly undersized unit.
magnafluxing uses metal powder with a large electromagnet to detect cracks. they will check the block in the common areas where they crack.
if you REALLY wanted to go a step further (which if the motor currently runs you should not need to) would be a pressure test, to make sure the cooling passages are not going to leak into any place they arent supposed to.
the machine shop can throw a bore guage down a couple cylinders and tell you if they think its gonna clean up at .030, .040, or .060 within about 2 minutes. i personally dont know how meaty the C's are for being able to bore .060...... but if .030 wont make it and .040 will i would have no problem at all going .040 on my own motor. hell, i would most likely have no problem going .060 on my own motor.
honing the mains = checking bearing alignment. 95% of the time they do not need to be align honed, which is good because it will end up giving you a sloppy timing chain unless you get a slightly undersized unit.
magnafluxing uses metal powder with a large electromagnet to detect cracks. they will check the block in the common areas where they crack.
if you REALLY wanted to go a step further (which if the motor currently runs you should not need to) would be a pressure test, to make sure the cooling passages are not going to leak into any place they arent supposed to.
the machine shop can throw a bore guage down a couple cylinders and tell you if they think its gonna clean up at .030, .040, or .060 within about 2 minutes. i personally dont know how meaty the C's are for being able to bore .060...... but if .030 wont make it and .040 will i would have no problem at all going .040 on my own motor. hell, i would most likely have no problem going .060 on my own motor.
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