Hey everyone, I'm probably going to get my car sandblasted, and when I get it back I need to know what I need to spray everything with. I first want to use a self-etching primer, I know where to get that. But after that I need to know what type of primer to use. If I'm not mistaken, there are two kinda, enamel and laquer, I'm not sure if there's others. I plan on getting the car painted with the base coat/clear coat method and I need to know which type of primer to use for that type of paint job. Will the bc/cc be enamel paint and thus needing enamel primer? Any help/advice is appreciated.

Thanks!

 

The best primer is epoxy based. Like epoxy glue, it is a 2 part system, paint, and catylist.

It's not cheap, but it is the best, and not just a little better. It works as a primer surfacer, (it builds), and as a primer sealer, (laquer primer is not "water tight", if not "top coated" or sealed, over time water will soak through and rust your car under the primer).

As a bonus, if epoxy primer is applied ofer a freshly sandblasted and rust free surface, you will not need the etching primer.

 

Awesome. Sounds like if I'm going this far with the car I might as well go with the epoxy! So will the type of primer effect the outcome of the paint job? Such as if I used laquer primer with enamel base coat, or a enamel primer with laquer paint, will that cause problems?

 

so basically

metal, then epoxy primer, bondo, primer again, primer sealer?

 

The epoxy will work the best for any type of paint, the laquer will work for any kind of paint, but the epoxy will work better.

The solvents in laquer based primers can cause issues when it is painted over some surfaces, especially uncatylized enamal, since you are sandblasting, this will not be an issue for you.

I like the DuPont URO epoxy primer, but I use Nason 2000 instead because it is cheaper, and I think it is a better deal.

You will not be disapointed with the epoxy primer, it does a great job, and sands downso smooth and nice! It does not crack or "craze" you can lay it on thick if you want,it still dries quick, and shrinks very little.

If you havent figured it out yet,,,, I am a huge fan of epoxy primer... it is the s*it.

<I forgot to mention that the epoxy is available in different colors, so if you re painting the car light, use a light shade of primer, if you are painting the car a dark color use a dark shade of primer. This really helps to get even coveragewhen the paint is applied.>

(for those who know, I know Nason is made by DuPont, but the URO seems to have more "body" than anything available in Nason)

 

Basicly, except that the epoxy primer can be used from the first coat of primer to the last (seal coat). It will work asa sealer as well.

 

ooo so a sealer is not needed for epoxy primer

 

Willing to do some research? You should considering the cost of painting a car. If you are going for an automotive quality finish, as opposed to those rolling Rustoleum on their cars, then you will be using urathane producte. All BC/CC systems are urathane. Enamel and laquer are old school and rarely used these days. You should go to autobodystore.com, then go to the classroom section, then read the Basics of Basics articles. It will take a while, but you will be informed with correct and current information.

 

That is one of the outstanding aspects of an epoxy primer, one product does it all, from the first coat of primer to the final seal.

+1 on highhilleer's advice, learn as much as you can. but keep in mind that it is a paint stores business to sell as many products as possible. So store posted instructions will often include recomendationsto buy and use products that you really do not need.

Sand (sand everything, paying particular attention to corners, edges, and hard to get to areas.
Your car being sandblasted will eliminate much of this step.

rememberthree rules for paint prep,

Prime (use the primer to level small small imperfections, get extra primer into low spots)
Guide (Spray a light misting of contrasting color paint on the freshly applied primer)
Block (sand the primer with a sanding block, the longer the block you can use the better. When you begin to see a hint of metal stop sanding)

The places where the contrasting mistingof paint remains are low spots, on the next coat of primer put a little extrain these spots.

When you are done with this repeat, repeat, repeat, and repeat, untill all low spots disapear, and all metal is covered.

Many people do not realize that the primer is used to level small imperfections. The more time you spend on the blocking procedure, the better your final results will be. When you see a car with a lot of "ripples" in the finish, this is an indication of improper blocking.

 

I am gonna be using some filler of course on some areas where patches and new panels have been welded in. But can I use filler over the primer? I have some areas where the PO took a grinder a little too far. I am hoping to just use a skim coat of filler over these areas.