Machine shop Help
I called a local Machine shop and asked for a round about figure on Bringing my toe-down 289 block in for cleaning and to check bore size and for cracks, The guy said "Hold up now, what are you wanting to do?" I told him this was my first build, that i wantd to keep my 289 as the foundation, 300hp daily driver,would like to stay carbed, i was planning on using new parts but wanted to keep the 289 that came with the car,. Then he went to tell me that i needed to bring him all the stuff, and he would work up an estimate on all the machin work, Boring, honing decking ect.' that machine work could cost 500-800$ easy." when i meantion some of the stuff ive talked with you guys like cams and such, he just kinda shut me down, Now i dont mind someone telling me im wrong, when im still learning, but............
Any way does this guy sound right or should i call someone else, he's been in bussiness a long time.
Any way does this guy sound right or should i call someone else, he's been in bussiness a long time.
ORIGINAL: MC
I called a local Machine shop and asked for a round about figure on Bringing my toe-down 289 block in for cleaning and to check bore size and for cracks, The guy said "Hold up now, what are you wanting to do?" I told him this was my first build, that i wantd to keep my 289 as the foundation, 300hp daily driver,would like to stay carbed, i was planning on using new parts but wanted to keep the 289 that came with the car,. Then he went to tell me that i needed to bring him all the stuff, and he would work up an estimate on all the machin work, Boring, honing decking ect.' that machine work could cost 500-800$ easy." when i meantion some of the stuff ive talked with you guys like cams and such, he just kinda shut me down, Now i dont mind someone telling me im wrong, when im still learning, but............
Any way does this guy sound right or should i call someone else, he's been in bussiness a long time.
I called a local Machine shop and asked for a round about figure on Bringing my toe-down 289 block in for cleaning and to check bore size and for cracks, The guy said "Hold up now, what are you wanting to do?" I told him this was my first build, that i wantd to keep my 289 as the foundation, 300hp daily driver,would like to stay carbed, i was planning on using new parts but wanted to keep the 289 that came with the car,. Then he went to tell me that i needed to bring him all the stuff, and he would work up an estimate on all the machin work, Boring, honing decking ect.' that machine work could cost 500-800$ easy." when i meantion some of the stuff ive talked with you guys like cams and such, he just kinda shut me down, Now i dont mind someone telling me im wrong, when im still learning, but............
Any way does this guy sound right or should i call someone else, he's been in bussiness a long time.
I brought mine in and the guy charged me $50 to clean/bead blast and measure up my bore. Then he told me it needed to be bored 30 over and gave me a price for a rebuild. Entire rebuild including parts for $1086.. New internals, minus the crank, which they will ground to make right.. It sounds like you need to talk to the guy in person and tell him what you want to do.. My guy told me it would cost about $200 to bore it.. and about the same for a port and polish of my heads.. This place Im going to has been there for about 30 years and was reccomended by the local mustang shop..
Sounds like he is a little expensive, but it is true that if he is doing your heads and everything else it could costthat much, I would call around or try and get some refferals from other mustang or classic car owners.. My mechanic gave me that estimate for a stock rebuild,, it will be more with the head porting, and performance parts that I get him to put in (cam, better pistons, bearings).
Sounds like he is a little expensive, but it is true that if he is doing your heads and everything else it could costthat much, I would call around or try and get some refferals from other mustang or classic car owners.. My mechanic gave me that estimate for a stock rebuild,, it will be more with the head porting, and performance parts that I get him to put in (cam, better pistons, bearings).
Well im Gunna bring him the things he asked for, I guess he needs it for seeing what the problem area's might be, But for sure i mainly want it Cooked,cleaned so it's like new. Anything to exspensive and ill be better off just buying a 302 block from summit for $500, but i agree ,I need to see him in person, If it fells like im gettin took, then usally your gut is right,thanks for the reps.
What do you mean he just shut you down? Think of it this way. You are the customer, he is the retailer in business to make money. You are the one paying to have the work done. Now, if you tell him you want him to do something that can't be done, then he just needs to tell you it can't be done. If you want flat top pistons, a mild cam, roller rockers or whatever, then he needs to give you an estimate of cost to include labor. If it is too high, then walk. If you can live with it, go for it.
Well i started off just askin about how much to clean it ,measure the bore size and check for any cracks just to see if i even have a decent block.
Then he commenced to asking me what i wanted to do with it,I would have been fine with justa a cleaning quote,Then when i started off on cams,intake ..he justinterrupprted and said do i want port work, what vales ect. I think we just got ahead ofourselves.He made me feel likehe was wasting his time bypricing stuff. but i just wanted the platform so i can build it my self,Im sure he would have figured it out that this is my first build and that im still learniing, But i know thats a prime oppertunity to get taken.
Hence, Ill be in here quoteing everything he tells and quotes mejust to check with you guys.
Then he commenced to asking me what i wanted to do with it,I would have been fine with justa a cleaning quote,Then when i started off on cams,intake ..he justinterrupprted and said do i want port work, what vales ect. I think we just got ahead ofourselves.He made me feel likehe was wasting his time bypricing stuff. but i just wanted the platform so i can build it my self,Im sure he would have figured it out that this is my first build and that im still learniing, But i know thats a prime oppertunity to get taken.
Hence, Ill be in here quoteing everything he tells and quotes mejust to check with you guys.
Oh Grasshopper. The first part of your storysounds like the guy knows what he is talking about.
1. He needs the block so he can
a. clean it
b. magnaflux, check for cracking
c. check bore
d. check for needing to be line honed
e. check that the deck is square to the crank
Now he knows what needs to be done to the block so he can prepare a detailed estimate.
2. He needs the crank to determine if there is a need to turn the crank journals to remove scratches, burs, etc. By checking the crank he can give you a detailed estimate for the cost of that work.
3. He needs the heads to
a. clean
b. magniflux for cracking
c. evaluate for porting and polishing
d. check valve seats
e. check for valves that need to be replaced
So after checking the all these he can prepare a detailed estimate.
4. He needs the rods to make sure they are not out of round. Since the piston pins are pressed in you will also be taking in the pistons. So he needs the rods to determine work needed and prepare an estimate.
5. Since you know you want to replace the cam, you can leave it at home.
6. If the block needs to be bored, you will need to buy new pistons. He will need what ever pistons you are going to use.
a. in a really good build the final hone of the block is matched to the specific piston that goes into each bore.
b. he will need to press the connecting rod pins into the pistons.
7. You ask for 300 hp. This is about 50% more than original. If you want a smooth running long lasting engine, then balancing is a good idea. In this process, the weight of each piston is measured and material is removed from the pistons to match the weight of the lightest piston. The same goes for the rods and caps. Then "bob" weights are attached to the crank and the harmonic balancer and flex plate/flywheel (yea, you need to bring these to the machine shop). The crank is spun and weight is added or removed to the crank to eliminate vibration (like balancing tires).
So you see, there are a lot of variables that go into preparing a block and the internal parts for a quality rebuild. I cannot tell you if the guy is good or bad or expensive or cheap. But it sounds to me he was trying to tell you like it is.
I do not know how the conversation was going when he "shut you down". May be what he was saying was lets evaluate what you have before we start talking about the selection of goodies for the engine.
You can tell from the length of this post it took me a while. A couple of the above posts were made while I was composing this.
1. He needs the block so he can
a. clean it
b. magnaflux, check for cracking
c. check bore
d. check for needing to be line honed
e. check that the deck is square to the crank
Now he knows what needs to be done to the block so he can prepare a detailed estimate.
2. He needs the crank to determine if there is a need to turn the crank journals to remove scratches, burs, etc. By checking the crank he can give you a detailed estimate for the cost of that work.
3. He needs the heads to
a. clean
b. magniflux for cracking
c. evaluate for porting and polishing
d. check valve seats
e. check for valves that need to be replaced
So after checking the all these he can prepare a detailed estimate.
4. He needs the rods to make sure they are not out of round. Since the piston pins are pressed in you will also be taking in the pistons. So he needs the rods to determine work needed and prepare an estimate.
5. Since you know you want to replace the cam, you can leave it at home.
6. If the block needs to be bored, you will need to buy new pistons. He will need what ever pistons you are going to use.
a. in a really good build the final hone of the block is matched to the specific piston that goes into each bore.
b. he will need to press the connecting rod pins into the pistons.
7. You ask for 300 hp. This is about 50% more than original. If you want a smooth running long lasting engine, then balancing is a good idea. In this process, the weight of each piston is measured and material is removed from the pistons to match the weight of the lightest piston. The same goes for the rods and caps. Then "bob" weights are attached to the crank and the harmonic balancer and flex plate/flywheel (yea, you need to bring these to the machine shop). The crank is spun and weight is added or removed to the crank to eliminate vibration (like balancing tires).
So you see, there are a lot of variables that go into preparing a block and the internal parts for a quality rebuild. I cannot tell you if the guy is good or bad or expensive or cheap. But it sounds to me he was trying to tell you like it is.
I do not know how the conversation was going when he "shut you down". May be what he was saying was lets evaluate what you have before we start talking about the selection of goodies for the engine.
You can tell from the length of this post it took me a while. A couple of the above posts were made while I was composing this.
ORIGINAL: highhilleer
Oh Grasshopper. The first part of your storysounds like the guy knows what he is talking about.
1. He needs the block so he can
a. clean it
b. magnaflux, check for cracking
c. check bore
d. check for needing to be line honed
e. check that the deck is square to the crank
Now he knows what needs to be done to the block so he can prepare a detailed estimate.
2. He needs the crank to determine if there is a need to turn the crank journals to remove scratches, burs, etc. By checking the crank he can give you a detailed estimate for the cost of that work.
3. He needs the heads to
a. clean
b. magniflux for cracking
c. evaluate for porting and polishing
d. check valve seats
e. check for valves that need to be replaced
So after checking the all these he can prepare a detailed estimate.
4. He needs the rods to make sure they are not out of round. Since the piston pins are pressed in you will also be taking in the pistons. So he needs the rods to determine work needed and prepare an estimate.
5. Since you know you want to replace the cam, you can leave it at home.
6. If the block needs to be bored, you will need to buy new pistons. He will need what ever pistons you are going to use.
a. in a really good build the final hone of the block is matched to the specific piston that goes into each bore.
b. he will need to press the connecting rod pins into the pistons.
7. You ask for 300 hp. This is about 50% more than original. If you want a smooth running long lasting engine, then balancing is a good idea. In this process, the weight of each piston is measured and material is removed from the pistons to match the weight of the lightest piston. The same goes for the rods and caps. Then "bob" weights are attached to the crank and the harmonic balancer and flex plate/flywheel (yea, you need to bring these to the machine shop). The crank is spun and weight is added or removed to the crank to eliminate vibration (like balancing tires).
So you see, there are a lot of variables that go into preparing a block and the internal parts for a quality rebuild. I cannot tell you if the guy is good or bad or expensive or cheap. But it sounds to me he was trying to tell you like it is.
I do not know how the conversation was going when he "shut you down". May be what he was saying was lets evaluate what you have before we start talking about the selection of goodies for the engine.
You can tell from the length of this post it took me a while. A couple of the above posts were made while I was composing this.
Oh Grasshopper. The first part of your storysounds like the guy knows what he is talking about.
1. He needs the block so he can
a. clean it
b. magnaflux, check for cracking
c. check bore
d. check for needing to be line honed
e. check that the deck is square to the crank
Now he knows what needs to be done to the block so he can prepare a detailed estimate.
2. He needs the crank to determine if there is a need to turn the crank journals to remove scratches, burs, etc. By checking the crank he can give you a detailed estimate for the cost of that work.
3. He needs the heads to
a. clean
b. magniflux for cracking
c. evaluate for porting and polishing
d. check valve seats
e. check for valves that need to be replaced
So after checking the all these he can prepare a detailed estimate.
4. He needs the rods to make sure they are not out of round. Since the piston pins are pressed in you will also be taking in the pistons. So he needs the rods to determine work needed and prepare an estimate.
5. Since you know you want to replace the cam, you can leave it at home.
6. If the block needs to be bored, you will need to buy new pistons. He will need what ever pistons you are going to use.
a. in a really good build the final hone of the block is matched to the specific piston that goes into each bore.
b. he will need to press the connecting rod pins into the pistons.
7. You ask for 300 hp. This is about 50% more than original. If you want a smooth running long lasting engine, then balancing is a good idea. In this process, the weight of each piston is measured and material is removed from the pistons to match the weight of the lightest piston. The same goes for the rods and caps. Then "bob" weights are attached to the crank and the harmonic balancer and flex plate/flywheel (yea, you need to bring these to the machine shop). The crank is spun and weight is added or removed to the crank to eliminate vibration (like balancing tires).
So you see, there are a lot of variables that go into preparing a block and the internal parts for a quality rebuild. I cannot tell you if the guy is good or bad or expensive or cheap. But it sounds to me he was trying to tell you like it is.
I do not know how the conversation was going when he "shut you down". May be what he was saying was lets evaluate what you have before we start talking about the selection of goodies for the engine.
You can tell from the length of this post it took me a while. A couple of the above posts were made while I was composing this.
see that's all I needed

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ORIGINAL: MC
see that's all I needed
[sm=vader.gif]
ORIGINAL: highhilleer
Oh Grasshopper. The first part of your storysounds like the guy knows what he is talking about.
1. He needs the block so he can
a. clean it
b. magnaflux, check for cracking
c. check bore
d. check for needing to be line honed
e. check that the deck is square to the crank
Now he knows what needs to be done to the block so he can prepare a detailed estimate.
2. He needs the crank to determine if there is a need to turn the crank journals to remove scratches, burs, etc. By checking the crank he can give you a detailed estimate for the cost of that work.
3. He needs the heads to
a. clean
b. magniflux for cracking
c. evaluate for porting and polishing
d. check valve seats
e. check for valves that need to be replaced
So after checking the all these he can prepare a detailed estimate.
4. He needs the rods to make sure they are not out of round. Since the piston pins are pressed in you will also be taking in the pistons. So he needs the rods to determine work needed and prepare an estimate.
5. Since you know you want to replace the cam, you can leave it at home.
6. If the block needs to be bored, you will need to buy new pistons. He will need what ever pistons you are going to use.
a. in a really good build the final hone of the block is matched to the specific piston that goes into each bore.
b. he will need to press the connecting rod pins into the pistons.
7. You ask for 300 hp. This is about 50% more than original. If you want a smooth running long lasting engine, then balancing is a good idea. In this process, the weight of each piston is measured and material is removed from the pistons to match the weight of the lightest piston. The same goes for the rods and caps. Then "bob" weights are attached to the crank and the harmonic balancer and flex plate/flywheel (yea, you need to bring these to the machine shop). The crank is spun and weight is added or removed to the crank to eliminate vibration (like balancing tires).
So you see, there are a lot of variables that go into preparing a block and the internal parts for a quality rebuild. I cannot tell you if the guy is good or bad or expensive or cheap. But it sounds to me he was trying to tell you like it is.
I do not know how the conversation was going when he "shut you down". May be what he was saying was lets evaluate what you have before we start talking about the selection of goodies for the engine.
You can tell from the length of this post it took me a while. A couple of the above posts were made while I was composing this.
Oh Grasshopper. The first part of your storysounds like the guy knows what he is talking about.
1. He needs the block so he can
a. clean it
b. magnaflux, check for cracking
c. check bore
d. check for needing to be line honed
e. check that the deck is square to the crank
Now he knows what needs to be done to the block so he can prepare a detailed estimate.
2. He needs the crank to determine if there is a need to turn the crank journals to remove scratches, burs, etc. By checking the crank he can give you a detailed estimate for the cost of that work.
3. He needs the heads to
a. clean
b. magniflux for cracking
c. evaluate for porting and polishing
d. check valve seats
e. check for valves that need to be replaced
So after checking the all these he can prepare a detailed estimate.
4. He needs the rods to make sure they are not out of round. Since the piston pins are pressed in you will also be taking in the pistons. So he needs the rods to determine work needed and prepare an estimate.
5. Since you know you want to replace the cam, you can leave it at home.
6. If the block needs to be bored, you will need to buy new pistons. He will need what ever pistons you are going to use.
a. in a really good build the final hone of the block is matched to the specific piston that goes into each bore.
b. he will need to press the connecting rod pins into the pistons.
7. You ask for 300 hp. This is about 50% more than original. If you want a smooth running long lasting engine, then balancing is a good idea. In this process, the weight of each piston is measured and material is removed from the pistons to match the weight of the lightest piston. The same goes for the rods and caps. Then "bob" weights are attached to the crank and the harmonic balancer and flex plate/flywheel (yea, you need to bring these to the machine shop). The crank is spun and weight is added or removed to the crank to eliminate vibration (like balancing tires).
So you see, there are a lot of variables that go into preparing a block and the internal parts for a quality rebuild. I cannot tell you if the guy is good or bad or expensive or cheap. But it sounds to me he was trying to tell you like it is.
I do not know how the conversation was going when he "shut you down". May be what he was saying was lets evaluate what you have before we start talking about the selection of goodies for the engine.
You can tell from the length of this post it took me a while. A couple of the above posts were made while I was composing this.
see that's all I needed

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