Hi,

I'M replacing the points and condenser on my 68 289 auto.

A question for the mechanics on-line, I've got a NOS point and condencer, the proper dielectric grease.

How much grease is needed on the shaft? I'm afraid to use too much or not enough.

Also when checking for the point gap, how do you rotate the shaft in the distributor to be on the low spot, to take measurement. Do I hand rotate the crankshaft by the fan blade (seems hard), or is there a place in front of the pulley to use a ratchet or else?? I'm learning this type of maintenance.

Thanks

 

hi my dad (the mechanic of the family, don't worry hes been doin it for 31 years) sya to use white litheum grease and only enogh to make a white film around the shaft

 

About a drop of grease spread on thelobes of the distributor cam is the proper amount. The grease that comes in the kit has been formulated for use in ditributors. I would not recomend using any other type unless you know personally what you are doing. When you get all the new parts installed, put a 13/16 socket on the bolt on the crank and turn it clockwise so that one of the lobes on the distributor cam is centered on the contact piece on the points. You can move the shaft enough to insure you are at the peak. That's the spot to take your measurements. Simple - give it a try.
Jim

 

I just bump the starter with the old screwdrive accross the starter solenoid trick until it is in the right position.

 

Don't forget to check and reset the timing if you set the points by gap.

I always used to set to dwell angle as read on a dwell tach and never had to reset timing after settling on a set of dwell and timing specs for the car in question and setting it up once.

Norm

 

Hi,

After a lot of work to try to improve the engine firing, I'm desperate to find a solution, my results so far are not as I expected.

I have installed my rebuild carb,(concours by Pony Carb). Since there was still hesitation, I did change plugs, plug cables, distributor cap, points and rotor. I still have hesitation specially at low speed upon acceleration.

My points were adjusted spot on at .021" per spec. I check the Dwell, it is at 24deg. The spec says between 24 to 29 deg.

Increasing the dwell angle towards the 29 deg, could it help? If yes, to do so, do I have to increase or decrease the point gap.

Any other thoughts to have a smooth running engine? I may have to end up going to a tuning place. Too bad, I feel I'm not far from fixing it....

Thanks

 

Go to the pertronics ignition system and all these problems go away!!

 

It's because this car is all original and I'm trying to keep it as is, using genuine replacement parts only. Thanks for the idea anyway.

 

Hesitation when? If you step on the accelerator, a stream of gas is shot into the venturi. Many times, there is too much or not enough, but there is an adjustment on the arm from the accelerator pump on the front of the carburetor. Move it and see, if the same, move it the other way.
Jim

 

Increasing dwell is associated with a smaller gap. Your plugs actually fire as the points open, so holding them closed longer means that the rubbing block on the points arm rides further up on the cam, or closer to the lobe peaks the contacts are opened. IIRC, larger dwell angles are more associated with better performance at the upper end of the rpm range, though.

You might check coil polarity, and the condition of the points cam.

I wouldn't worry overly much about using a 29° dwell spec for a V8, or even 30°, although the smaller gap that results *might* result in slightly shorter point life.


Norm