engine dies
5th Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,688
From: Ramona, CA
RE: engine dies
ORIGINAL: 69FECoupe
Looks like you have a Duraspark II electronic ignition. It has a "start" and a "run" circuit. I had the same problem on an F250 I had a while back. It turned out that the run circuit had died. I replaced the ignition module and all was well again.The modules are identified by the color of the grommet that the wires go into. You probably have a blue grommet. Make sure you have 12v to the red wire on the module with the key in the run position. If you don't, you have a wiring or ignition switch problem.
Looks like you have a Duraspark II electronic ignition. It has a "start" and a "run" circuit. I had the same problem on an F250 I had a while back. It turned out that the run circuit had died. I replaced the ignition module and all was well again.The modules are identified by the color of the grommet that the wires go into. You probably have a blue grommet. Make sure you have 12v to the red wire on the module with the key in the run position. If you don't, you have a wiring or ignition switch problem.
Thread Starter
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 180
From:
RE: engine dies
ORIGINAL: 69FECoupe
Looks like you have a Duraspark II electronic ignition. It has a "start" and a "run" circuit. I had the same problem on an F250 I had a while back. It turned out that the run circuit had died. I replaced the ignition module and all was well again.The modules are identified by the color of the grommet that the wires go into. You probably have a blue grommet. Make sure you have 12v to the red wire on the module with the key in the run position. If you don't, you have a wiring or ignition switch problem.
Looks like you have a Duraspark II electronic ignition. It has a "start" and a "run" circuit. I had the same problem on an F250 I had a while back. It turned out that the run circuit had died. I replaced the ignition module and all was well again.The modules are identified by the color of the grommet that the wires go into. You probably have a blue grommet. Make sure you have 12v to the red wire on the module with the key in the run position. If you don't, you have a wiring or ignition switch problem.
Thread Starter
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 180
From:
RE: engine dies
ORIGINAL: JMD
This is way, way, way, premature to diagnose, but it might be that your engine slipped time if a "fiber" set of timing gears was used in the rebuild.
You should eliminate all of the more likely issues before proceding to check this out, except that you might want to put a timing light on and see where your timing is set. make a note if the ignition timing is way out, and how much, before adjusting the ignition timing.
The light might prove helpfull in diagnosing an ignition issue as well.
This is way, way, way, premature to diagnose, but it might be that your engine slipped time if a "fiber" set of timing gears was used in the rebuild.
You should eliminate all of the more likely issues before proceding to check this out, except that you might want to put a timing light on and see where your timing is set. make a note if the ignition timing is way out, and how much, before adjusting the ignition timing.
The light might prove helpfull in diagnosing an ignition issue as well.
4th Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,001
RE: engine dies
I ♥ Acer
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 17,565
From:
RE: engine dies
I'm not understanding why it will start and run for a few seconds if it is an ignition issue. The fact that it runs for a few seconds after the key is released states that the ignition switch is good. If the timing was way off and the engine starts, then it would just stumble and not run very smooth, but it would keep running. If the timing chain has snapped or slipped the engine would not even start. If the MSD box was toast, the engine would not start.
Now, I am thinking it is starving for fuel. Take the line loose from the carburetor and go get an old jar. Put the line in the jar and have someone try to start the car. If you are getting a good stream of gas coming out, then you can rule out a shot fuel pump or stopped up filter and line. If it barely run out, then double check the filters and if they are clean, replace the fuel pump. If the stream is good, then it's time for a carb overhaul. More than likely the pump in the carb is shot.
Now, I am thinking it is starving for fuel. Take the line loose from the carburetor and go get an old jar. Put the line in the jar and have someone try to start the car. If you are getting a good stream of gas coming out, then you can rule out a shot fuel pump or stopped up filter and line. If it barely run out, then double check the filters and if they are clean, replace the fuel pump. If the stream is good, then it's time for a carb overhaul. More than likely the pump in the carb is shot.
Thread Starter
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 180
From:
RE: engine dies
ORIGINAL: Soaring
Now, I am thinking it is starving for fuel. Take the line loose from the carburetor and go get an old jar. Put the line in the jar and have someone try to start the car. If you are getting a good stream of gas coming out, then you can rule out a shot fuel pump or stopped up filter and line. If it barely run out, then double check the filters and if they are clean, replace the fuel pump. If the stream is good, then it's time for a carb overhaul. More than likely the pump in the carb is shot.
Now, I am thinking it is starving for fuel. Take the line loose from the carburetor and go get an old jar. Put the line in the jar and have someone try to start the car. If you are getting a good stream of gas coming out, then you can rule out a shot fuel pump or stopped up filter and line. If it barely run out, then double check the filters and if they are clean, replace the fuel pump. If the stream is good, then it's time for a carb overhaul. More than likely the pump in the carb is shot.
I ♥ Acer
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 17,565
From:
RE: engine dies
It's pretty important to have that carb spotlessly clean, and to adjust that float level to perfection. The pumps in these carbs sometimes get pin holes in them. Not sure why that happens, but it does. Yeah, rebuild that carb then get back to us.
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 537
From:
RE: engine dies
From listening to the video, that's a fuel problem.
you say you pump the foot feed and it starts - I assume you are pumping the foot feed while its running and it just stops running then you repeat the foot feed pump and it starts again?
IF that's the case, you have a delivery issue. I'm going to guess carb, however, I would not rule out pump. I'd pull the line off at the carb and see if you have flow and if it's at normal pressure. If that checks out, then your issue is carb. Be sure to put the line in something to catch the fuel and disconnect the coil wire so there's no chance of fire.
Turn the motor over for several seconds and make sure you've good fuel flow. If not, take the line off at the pump and make sure there's flow to the pump, if so, then pump it is - be sure to replace all filters as well.
(Note: this is assuming that you're releasing the key and it is running in the "run" position. IF you're having to hold the key in the "start" position to keep the motor running for any length of time at all, then your problem is not fuel, it's as was stated above and replace the appropriate module)
you say you pump the foot feed and it starts - I assume you are pumping the foot feed while its running and it just stops running then you repeat the foot feed pump and it starts again?
IF that's the case, you have a delivery issue. I'm going to guess carb, however, I would not rule out pump. I'd pull the line off at the carb and see if you have flow and if it's at normal pressure. If that checks out, then your issue is carb. Be sure to put the line in something to catch the fuel and disconnect the coil wire so there's no chance of fire.
Turn the motor over for several seconds and make sure you've good fuel flow. If not, take the line off at the pump and make sure there's flow to the pump, if so, then pump it is - be sure to replace all filters as well.
(Note: this is assuming that you're releasing the key and it is running in the "run" position. IF you're having to hold the key in the "start" position to keep the motor running for any length of time at all, then your problem is not fuel, it's as was stated above and replace the appropriate module)
