hotrod351

well i found a site that discusses what it does and one thing they said was if you had a marginal weak area in a water jacket you would end up with a leak after using the stuff. i think with using the new spal fan and avoiding using the ac in 125 degree temps ill be alright. or go nuts and hav a custom aluminum radiator made, say a 4 row aluminum. im sure it would be better than a 4 row copper. think it would cost 700.00 or 800.00 dollars. cheaper than a new car.

urban_cowboy

I am fighting the same thing. I have a flex fan with shroud, 3 core copper radiator that looks pretty old, 180deg thermostat, and running water wetter. I have no problems on the highway, but in stop and go traffic it heats up to the point the A/C stops cooling. I live in San Antonio, which is not as hot as AZ, but still gets into the 100s. My first action was to add the water wetter, than did not help much, so I changed out the thermostat. That did not help much, so my next step is to replace the radiator. I could have it flushed and rodded, but I think I will go with a new three core, either copper or aluminum. I hear four cores do not help that much more over a three core and you don't have to fight the thickness issues. Good luck. I know it is frustrating. One thing that helped me a little was checking and adjusting the timing. It still have overheating issues, but they occur much more gradualy now with less timing. The bad think is now the hotrodder does not run as good.

hotrod351

i know that it can turn into a long battle. i found out about having a radiator rotted out, it will cool it down some but mot as good as new. you see they take some of the metal out when they rot it and then it has less metal surface to get rid of the heat. im being told that i should go with a 195 thermostat and that would help.

hotrod351

well i finally installed my spal fan and 100 amp alt. feels like it puts out more at idle then the stock fan. my question is, has anybody used the single white wire plug that comes in the kit to hook to there original one wire temp. sending with luck. i have a mech. gauge installed under the dash and also have the stock temp gauge hooked up. i want to keep the VDO mech. gauge to see what happens but also want to have the stock gauge work too. the place i bought the kit from said i can only kook up to a two wire temp sender, but the wiring diagram shows the white wire hookup going to the 12 volt wire on the temp. sender and the other temp sender going to ground. isn't that how the one wire sender works, the sender is the ground and the wire is the 12 volts.

JMD

You can make any on/off or off/on sender work with the proper combination and use of relays,,, I have done so, but it can really tange ones brain.....

hotrod351

i have the PWM unit for the spal fan. also there sending unit. just wondered if anyone had luck with the PWM using the stock one wire sending unit.

Soaring

The Redline water wetter vs, the Royal Purple Ice debate. Hmmm. This has not been solved. Anybody have advice or resolution?

VintageBlue

I am not a car expert, but I do know a thing or two about thermodynamics and heat transfer......if you are still having the problem, change to a 3 row radiator. Copper tubes, aluminum fins (if possible). One thing you can try is don't go with a 50/50 mix in the summer. It is "anitfreeze" and I don't think you need that in 120 degree weather. Glycol hurts the heat transfer properties of water.

Just some thoughts.

66GTKFB

The use of a 50/50 mixture of anti-freeze in summer is a factory recomended practice. It seems that the addition of certain chemicals in water raises its boiling point. We proved that in myhigh school chemistry class back in the Eisenhower Administration. Repeated the experiments in college in much more detail. That property of anti-freeze is documented. Then the anti-freeze manufacturers did an even more dastardly thing to their product. They added some anti-rust chemicals. Two pluses.
Jim

jcomp

I'm sure the reason that less glycol is recommended by some in the summer has to do with the lower specific heat and latent heat of the glycol vs. water. Water takes more heat energy to increase in temperature (specific heat) and more heat energy to change state from a liquid to gas (latent heat) than glycol. Of course, glycol does have a higher boiling point and the antifreeze mixture provides essential vitamins and nutrients that a healthy cooling system needs.

As a side note: distilled water also has a higher boiling point than tap water (but I don't think it will matter in this application) and won't contribute to mineral deposits in the cooling system.