Has anyone heard of Reverse Fluid Injectors??? i need to do a brake fluid change and am look for the easiest way to do so
from this site http://www.motionpro.com/brand_special/phoenix.php
has anyone used these
do they work well ????

 

Anyone???

 

I havent used any name brand units...but I made my own...here is what I did...

I took 5 feet of rigid walled 3/16" diameter plasic tubing. (GM Vacuum line)
1 large mason jar. (Wifes cabinate)
I cut the tube intoone 3foot piece, and one 2 foot piece. (Walmart razor knife)
I took the lid of the mason jar and cut two holes in it, just big enough for the tubing to pass through.
(I actually used a nail)
I screwed the lid onto the jar, then pushed the 3foot long piece through one hole and all the way to the bottom of the mason jar.
I took the 2 foot piece and pushed it through the other hole in the lid of the mason jar about 1/4" into the jar.
Then I took a hot glue gun, and placed a bead of glue all around the hose and lid where it entered the jar.

I placed a piece of windshield washer tube on the3foot long piece. (about 1" long) press it on to the 3/16 tubing about 1/2" onto the end of the tube.
Ihot glued a micro crevis tool (Shop Vac) to the end of the 2 foot piece.

Take the 3 foot long hose (that goes all the way to the bottom of the jar) and using the flexable windshild washer hose press it over the bleeder nipple on the brake furthest from the Master cylinder.

Hook a shop vac tothe crevis tool that is glued to the short tube.
Turn the vac on.
Break the bleeder nipple loose.
it will start to slowly pull brake fluid into the jar.

Keep adding fluid to the master cylinder till the fluid entering the jar runs clean.

Repeat on each wheel.

 

heres the easiest way to bleed your brakes www.speedbleeder.com there about 10$ at auto zone,advanced etc they normally have them in stock and heres the cheapest way with you and friend for free
Braking 202 -- "Bleeding the Brakes" [/align] Bleeding the brakes requires a properly sized box wrench for the bleeder and the clear plastic bleed hose provided with your system. Good quality, non-silicone fluid is also a must. Baer Brakes has tested a wide variety of fluids and strongly recommends Performance Friction’s Z-Rated fluid #90016 for street and occasional track use (with Motorcraft PM1 our backup suggestion for this same duty). These two have been proven to be more effective than fluids that are often many times more expensive. For racing, Baer recommends and uses only Castrol SRF. Baer stocks and sells both the Performance Friction Z-Rated and Castrol SRF. Always remember, good to excellent brakes or fluid do not function without adequate cooling. In fact, the more serious your brake system, the more attention that needs to be directed to proper ducting, as they will generate more heat due to increased capacity. BLEEDING BRAKES IS NOT DONE WITH PRESSURE, IT IS PURELY A FUNCTION OF MOVING FLUID THROUGH THE SYSTEM. THE OBJECT IS TO DISPLACE AIR, NOT TO SEE HOW FAR FLUID CAN BE SHOT OUT OF THE CALIPER!
Proper Bleeding Technique Enlist someone who will help you bleed the brakes. Make sure they also read these instructions carefully (so they understand the goal). [ol][*]For systems which are essentially dry front and rear, start by filling the master cylinder with proper fluid. Pour slowly so as not to aerate the fluid.[*]Next, move to the first caliper, attach the clear plastic bleed hose to the bleeder and open it. Hold the hose upright so that you can monitor the escape of air bubbles. VERY SLOWLY stroke the brake pedal by hand or foot until fluid comes out. Now close the bleeder.[*]ACTUAL BLEEDING SEQUENCE: [ul][*]Have your partner very slowly, with modest pressure (approximately 25-30 lbs.ft.), stroke the pedal ONE TIME until hydraulic resistance is encountered. Ask your partner to hold at this point with the same modest and even pressure and notify you that he is “holding.�[*]Open the bleeder, letting the pedal go to the floor or until it stops, using the same modest level of pressure, then close the bleeder again. Notify your partner “the system is sealed.� He can then slowly release pedal pressure.[/ul][*]Repeat the BLEEDING SEQUENCE (never stroke the pedal more than one time) until all signs of air are purged (no bubbles) from fluid. IMPORTANT [ul][*]NOTE: DO NOT LET THE MASTER CYLINDER RUN DRY! Be sure to check the fluid level after every third bleeding sequence or sooner if reservoir volume is very small.[/ul][*]Before moving to the next caliper, take a small block of wood or a plastic hammer and carefully tap the caliper to dislodge any additional air bubbles that may be trapped. Then bleed one last time.[*]Move to the next caliper and repeat the procedures previously outlined. Continue until all calipers have been bled. Before re-installing wheels and placing the car on the ground, we recommend you carefully wipe clean all caliper surfaces, hose joints and fittings, making sure they are all dry and free from seepage. If not, inspect and tighten appropriately. Spray all rotor surfaces with Brake Kleen® or a similar product to remove all dirt and oils from your hands that may have been transferred to the rotor during assembly. Also remember to remove the nut that has been holding rotor in place before attempting to re-install the wheel.[/ol] For street use, as with any time you open the brake system, it may be advisable to repeat the bleeding procedure after driving the vehicle for a day, as driving the car may dislodge some additional air bubbles. For competition cars, we recommend repeating this procedure directly after at least the first two sessions the car is on track and at the beginning of each race weekend thereafter. Even if your pedal is high and firm and additional bleeding is deemed unnecessary, always inspect the calipers, hoses and fittings after the first outing for signs of any fluid seepage and correct immediately.

 

I just ordered a Motive pressure bleeder off of ebay to do the brakes on several vehicles around my house. I have read good reviews on this product and no negatives yet. As for the Reverse Fluid Injectors, I have no idea what the advantage would be, even after reading the product link description. The Motive bleeders is also less $$$$ than the reverse fluid injector....tell us how is works for you if you get one.

 

Well the instead of the power bleeder from motive like you said which hooks ontop of the master cylinder
the RFI hooks up to your bleed valve RFI takes advantage of the laws of physics: air rises in fluid. The complete system is bled by forcing the air up and out the master cylinder reservoir. The brake fluid then fills the reservoir

 

You might consider a 'MITYVAC' brake bleeder kit. Check out www.eastwood.com for the description and picture. Their price is a little high at $34.95. I've seen the same thing for $24.95 at local auto parts stores. It can also be used to check the diaphram on the distributor and to draw gas thru fuel lines.
Jim

 

Actually thats exactly what i was looking for earlier but couldnt find thanks i think thats what i might end up getting after all

 

Man, there is some really good information in this thread about bleeding brakes. This sucker is going in the FAQ. This is the only article I have regarding bleeding brakes, but it is a good comprehensive method.
http://www.sandiegomiataclub.org/SDM...ake_Fluid.html

 

I have used a unit from HarborFreight that uses compressed air to draw the fluid through the system, making one-person bleedig possible. It used quite a bit of air so my 3.5hp/20gal compressor was about as low as you would want to go. They have several other units at varying prices that are worth looking at, especially if they are at the common deep discount. Of course, these are cheap tools with all the benefits and caveats to be expected.

I hope this is useful.

Brian and Zak