I got the "big" kit from Ron Francis. I cant remember just what it is called though....

 

JMD, I would love to see routing pics - I am a little mixed about trying to use the firewall holes vs. routing through the fenderwells, etc. like on JamesW's site (midnightdesigns.com)

Thanks for all the good feedback folks!

 

You bet, I will get some upthis evening for you.

 

Yeah, i think i am going to get the Ron Francis kit, his was 200-300 dollars cheaper. JMD and bladleyb, which kits did you guys get?

 

Thanks JMD

I got the mustang kit on Ron Francis for $429 and I bought the electric fan kit for $59 I think

 

Sorry for not coming through with the photos yet,,,, one of my kids took my camera last night,,,, by the time they got home,,, well,,,Going tolook for it now....

 

Ok, my daughter had my camera,,, anyway, here are a few pictures of the routing. The wires are still a work in progress as we will need to add and connect a few wires here and there, so the final clean up has not been done, especially around the panell itself.



[IMG]local://upfiles/59032/408CB72481AA4A7C802A91BD57601BC4.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/59032/8E0B6BDC895B4971A70A54D37C917B6D.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/59032/2032C3BD6D85485ABF7F446EE5559142.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/59032/482561CD8A774FEFBB6E755DA72861AD.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/59032/63399D666FA94FE6A370CCF4FEEFC2ED.jpg[/IMG]

 

Thanks JMD

 

I would have to agree. I rerwired last week using a painless. I was a little apprehensive at first, but it was one of the easiest things I have done. I did not run into any issues, but you do need to put the fuse panel close to the original location.

 

It seems there are several aftermarket kitsavailable nowthat are just as good as the BIG name (and cost) brands. Seems one of the best insulators (wire coating)is cross-linked polyethylene (used in marine wire), this could be a valuable hint on the quality of the harness. On the crimp/solder thing, I do solder using good techniques and a rosin core solder, and then, a good "heatshrink" (slid onbefore making the connection). "Graybar" brandseems to work very well, its thicker and has more glue than the thin stuff. Its well worth the money and very important to do.This seals and protects the connection. Crimps alone canpermit mosture to enter that canpromote oxidation and lead to failure in time. Loom and tape any area that you think will have a chance of rubbing thru. Use grommets on any metal wall penetration.