I have been thinking about rewiring my car and wanted to know how hard it is to do. I just bought new speakers and a new stero so i thought i might need to rewire. So does anyone know how hard it is to do with a 1966? Thanks.

 

Re-wire - not necessary. Depending on what system you bought, the battery powermay be your only concern. Where do you want to install the stereo? What kind of speakers? Where do you think you want to locate them?
Jim

 

Are you considering a "new" wiring kit or a "stock type" rewiring?

My son(s) and I recently rewired my son's 66 with a Ron Francis kit (not stock at all). It was an easy install, with most of the work/time being spent on the routing/hiding of wires. Everything worked the first time without any complications..Way cool...

I am sure that others on here can help you with a stock rewiring as well.

 

I bought a custom autosound USA-1, i planned to put it where the original stero was, it fits. I have Kicker living loud speakers, 6*8 and plan to put them in the rear where the package tray is. And lastly i have a dual dash speaker that i bought at K.A.R. mustang store. I dont know what kind i want, probaly the cheapest kit that can work with my stero. Thanks.

 

Junk the in dash speaker and use kick panel ones. They sound better. Run the rear speaker wires under the door sill. Pick up main power from the existing radio source. It is switched with the key. You will need memory power, use the wire to the cigar lighter. You will (or may) want the light in the radio to work, there is a feed for that too. To do a good installation, you must remove the instrument cluster to access power feeds. Get some 0.187 dia male bullet connectors for main power hook-up and lightsand a ring lug with a no 10 screw hole for memory hookup.
Jim

 

I am getting ready to do the ron francis thing and glad to hear it went well. I wish they made one of these things that was truly plug and play so that you don't have to monkey with the connectors.

JMD, did you crimp and go or did you solder and shrink wrap?

 

How much did the kit cost?

 

$429 but I added an electric fan relay for another 59 so it was almost $500 - alot cheaper than painless

 

I crimped,,, I did so to eliminate the posibility of poor conections due to flux/solder contamination,,,

Actually I crimped because I am lazy,,, plus,, the kit actually recomended crimp connections because when soldering, Ron says the solder can wick up into the wire, and cause the wire to be brittle near the connection, and break off when subject to vibration.

But I crimped the daylights out of the connections, they will never pull loose, trust me.

 

While that could happen, I don't really agree that it is a better solution to crimp. I would think that the odds of a crimp vibrating loose and causing problems would be more likely than a soldered wire becoming brittle and breaking....especially if you are using proper strain relief techniques.