Just ordered my front diskbrakes last night. So now I have to undercoat and I can get the car back on the ground to start doing mock up of the body panels to get ready to paint. Am torn between sand blasting the front end parts and repainting them or just buying all new. what do you all think? The kits I have been looking at look just like the stock. Do they handle any different than the stock. I would like to buy the adjustable style but I dont want to spend that kind of money.

 

weather you buy new or rebuild the original UCAs, I recommend taking them apart and cutting a groove in the bottom of the UCA shafts for improved greasibility. also if you offset the shafts slightly you can get a little extra caster. Here is an excerpt from my Shelby drop web page on how to rebuild the UCAs

Rebuilding UCA
- As mentioned earlier, when doing a UCA drop, you have a prime opportunity to rebuild the UCA bushing for better grease-ability and improved caster. The first thing you will need to do is remove the UCA from the spindle. The easiest way to do this without damaging the ball joint is to make a ball joint removal tool out of a couple ¾� bolts and a ¾� all-thread connector. I personally made mine with two pieces of all-thread, two ¾� nuts and one all-thread connector. I did this to make a recessed area for the ball joint bolt ends to fit into. Once the UCA has been removed, it can be disassembled and inspected. As with any auto part rebuild, inspect all parts being reused and replace any that are questionable. The next step is to modify the UCA bushing. I recommend starting with a bushing shaft assembly. Take a cut off wheel and cut a grease groove perpendicular to the thread on the underside of the shaft. I cut the groove into the shaft from the end all the way past where the O-ring seats and to a depth just past the depths of the threads. This is done for two reasons. First, it allows grease to get to all the threads and, second, it provides a grease escape so that when you grease the bushings you don't push the O-ring out. The information regarding cutting grease groves into the bushings came from MustangSteve of www.mustangsteve.com. Once the improved grease-ability has been achieved, our attention can be turned to improving caster. Install the pivot shaft, including the cap nuts, in the UCA so that the shaft is perfectly centered as it was designed to be. Many measurements and adjustments will need to be made to perfectly center the bushing shaft. Completely remove the forward cap and, once it is free of the UCA, loosen the rear cap just to the point where it comes loose from the UCA body. At that point, loosen the rear cap another 1/3 of a turn further. NOTE: The amount loosened may vary, 1/3 of a turn is a good starting point. Reinstall the cap and shaft into the UCA body, including the forward cap. This process should move the shaft forward about .1�, however, individual results may vary and you will need to take careful measurements and make sure the shaft is moved no more than .1�. NOTE: Moving the shaft more than .1� can affect the way the shaft and retaining nuts work together, which could cause an unsafe condition. Moving the shaft forward moves the UCA assembly backwards and gives you more positive caster. Before you make an improved caster modification, make sure you have enough clearance between the rear zirk and the shock tower wall. Once the UCA bushing is lined up where it needs to be, tighten the cap nuts down to the point where the UCA travels without binding up, and then tack weld the caps on three side so they don't back out. NOTE: as with any other welding, the safety of this modification relies on the strength of these welds, so if you are not confident in your welding skills, have a certified professional do it. The reason for welding the bushing caps in place rather than tightening them to the point where they will stay put themselves is because, often times when the caps are that tight enough to not come loose, it puts the bushings in a bind and will cause the assembly to squeak and/or cause premature failure of the assembly. Also, I have found that it works best to rebuild both UCA assemblies at the same time so that they can be positioned bushing shaft end to bushing shaft end to ensure that they are mirror images of each other and have the same amount of improved caster adjustment.

 

Good info.
Do the drop.

 

id rebuild what you got or get some from http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/ theres been a few post about replacement control arms they dont fit or they are thiner metal then the ford ones. either way roller spring perches are a must so is a monte carlo bar and export brace if you dont have them.