Squealing Tires
I'm gonna go with alignment(at least, especially since it was just messed with). The factory suspension geometry makes positive camber when you corner, and the factory alignment specs call for positive camber to begin with. Positive Camber + positive camber = more positive camber and less wheel in contact with the ground. If you turn and the wheels squeel and the car is acting like it doesn't want to turn into the corner then you're getting push from the tires leaning out and picking up the inside edge off the ground, reducing the rubber on the road. Factory Ford suspension from the 60's blows, that's why Shelby relocated the upper control arms, to correct the geometry, the Ford engineers of those days knew basically nothing about suspension dynamics. That's why factory trim 60's Mustangs handle like crap and wheel hop if you have any decent power.
Tire pressure and tires will make a difference too, some are noisy, some aren't. Look at your tires too, for anything abnormal, wear in one particular spot, deformations etc
Tire pressure and tires will make a difference too, some are noisy, some aren't. Look at your tires too, for anything abnormal, wear in one particular spot, deformations etc
ORIGINAL: 67mustang302
I'm gonna go with alignment(at least, especially since it was just messed with). The factory suspension geometry makes positive camber when you corner, and the factory alignment specs call for positive camber to begin with. Positive Camber + positive camber = more positive camber and less wheel in contact with the ground. If you turn and the wheels squeel and the car is acting like it doesn't want to turn into the corner then you're getting push from the tires leaning out and picking up the inside edge off the ground, reducing the rubber on the road. Factory Ford suspension from the 60's blows, that's why Shelby relocated the upper control arms, to correct the geometry, the Ford engineers of those days knew basically nothing about suspension dynamics. That's why factory trim 60's Mustangs handle like crap and wheel hop if you have any decent power.
Tire pressure and tires will make a difference too, some are noisy, some aren't. Look at your tires too, for anything abnormal, wear in one particular spot, deformations etc
I'm gonna go with alignment(at least, especially since it was just messed with). The factory suspension geometry makes positive camber when you corner, and the factory alignment specs call for positive camber to begin with. Positive Camber + positive camber = more positive camber and less wheel in contact with the ground. If you turn and the wheels squeel and the car is acting like it doesn't want to turn into the corner then you're getting push from the tires leaning out and picking up the inside edge off the ground, reducing the rubber on the road. Factory Ford suspension from the 60's blows, that's why Shelby relocated the upper control arms, to correct the geometry, the Ford engineers of those days knew basically nothing about suspension dynamics. That's why factory trim 60's Mustangs handle like crap and wheel hop if you have any decent power.
Tire pressure and tires will make a difference too, some are noisy, some aren't. Look at your tires too, for anything abnormal, wear in one particular spot, deformations etc
ORIGINAL: 66GTKFB
When the reproduction Dual Red-Line bias ply 6.95-14 Uniroyal tires squeal on my 66 GT K Fastback on a turn - I add air.
When they squeal as I'm reacting to a green light - I grin.
Jim
When the reproduction Dual Red-Line bias ply 6.95-14 Uniroyal tires squeal on my 66 GT K Fastback on a turn - I add air.
When they squeal as I'm reacting to a green light - I grin.
Jim
If you don't believe me about Ford's factory suspension geometry, try and take a left turn through a street corner at 40mph and see if you don't fly right off the road, the tires will never stay in contact and you'll understeer right into a straight line. I don't align my car to factory specs, and I've taken left handers on the street at higher speeds than that, though not when there's cops around. A lot of it is how you drive, you drivereal easythen the factory specs are fine, you like to take a corner fast and you're not gonna do it with a factory alignment. Though that's true of any car, more agressive driving requires more agressive alignment specss it's especially true with 60's Ford cars.
And as a side note, the last time I had my car aligned by a shop that "went by the book," they aligned my front to factory specs, even though I told them NOT to do it. A brand new set of 60,000 mile tires were worn completely down to the steel belts ONLY on the outside edge of the tires(the inside still had full tread) in less than 2,000 miles, and I nearly flew off a highway when I stepped on the gas pedal in a mild curve at 75mph(the front came loose and the car suddenly went in an understeeringstraight line) . I've taken that same curve at speeds over that with my current alignment, and not a single bit of steering loss occured. There's no reason any car should be driving down the road with both of it's front wheels leaning away from the car
And as a side note, the last time I had my car aligned by a shop that "went by the book," they aligned my front to factory specs, even though I told them NOT to do it. A brand new set of 60,000 mile tires were worn completely down to the steel belts ONLY on the outside edge of the tires(the inside still had full tread) in less than 2,000 miles, and I nearly flew off a highway when I stepped on the gas pedal in a mild curve at 75mph(the front came loose and the car suddenly went in an understeeringstraight line) . I've taken that same curve at speeds over that with my current alignment, and not a single bit of steering loss occured. There's no reason any car should be driving down the road with both of it's front wheels leaning away from the car


