suspension uprades
These are IMHO in the order of benifit
I. GET A PERFORMANCE ALIGNMENT! (dont use fords specs)
II. GET A PERFORMANCE ALIGNMENT!!!
III. GET A PERFORMANCE ALIGNMENT!!!!!
This is the info I take to the aliognment shop:
Please align to these specs “1960-1966 Mustang and Falcon Performance Alignment with Shelby dropâ€.
These specifications are in order of importance.
1. NO more than .25 degrees difference between driver’s side and passenger’s side.
2. +2.0 to +3.5 degrees caster.
NOTE: for cars with Adjustable strut rods. Please attain as much caster as possible using the shims (at least 1.5 to 2.0 degrees), and then use the adjustable strut rods to increase the caster and make the sides the same. Also, please note that the caster difference between the driver’s side and passenger’s side needs to have no more .25 degrees difference prior to the adjustment of the strut rods.
3. -.5 to 0 degrees camber. No positive camber, please. There is no problem having a slight variation from driver’s side to passenger’s side to account for the crown in the road.
4. 1/16" to 1/8†toe in
If you run into any problems attaining these specs, please call me (your phone number here).
IV. UCA drop
V. roller spring perches
VI. adjustable strut rods
VII. 1" swat bar
VIII. New stock springs all the way around with performance shocks such a KBY gas adjust
Of course more important than all of these suspension parts, make sure you have a good set of disc brakes.
I. GET A PERFORMANCE ALIGNMENT! (dont use fords specs)
II. GET A PERFORMANCE ALIGNMENT!!!
III. GET A PERFORMANCE ALIGNMENT!!!!!
This is the info I take to the aliognment shop:
Please align to these specs “1960-1966 Mustang and Falcon Performance Alignment with Shelby dropâ€.
These specifications are in order of importance.
1. NO more than .25 degrees difference between driver’s side and passenger’s side.
2. +2.0 to +3.5 degrees caster.
NOTE: for cars with Adjustable strut rods. Please attain as much caster as possible using the shims (at least 1.5 to 2.0 degrees), and then use the adjustable strut rods to increase the caster and make the sides the same. Also, please note that the caster difference between the driver’s side and passenger’s side needs to have no more .25 degrees difference prior to the adjustment of the strut rods.
3. -.5 to 0 degrees camber. No positive camber, please. There is no problem having a slight variation from driver’s side to passenger’s side to account for the crown in the road.
4. 1/16" to 1/8†toe in
If you run into any problems attaining these specs, please call me (your phone number here).
IV. UCA drop
V. roller spring perches
VI. adjustable strut rods
VII. 1" swat bar
VIII. New stock springs all the way around with performance shocks such a KBY gas adjust
Of course more important than all of these suspension parts, make sure you have a good set of disc brakes.
IV. UCA drop
V. roller spring perches
VI. adjustable strut rods
VII. 1" swat bar
VIII. New stock springs all the way around with performance shocks such a KBY gas adjust
V. roller spring perches
VI. adjustable strut rods
VII. 1" swat bar
VIII. New stock springs all the way around with performance shocks such a KBY gas adjust
I. GET A PERFORMANCE ALIGNMENT! (dont use fords specs)
II. GET A PERFORMANCE ALIGNMENT!!!
III. GET A PERFORMANCE ALIGNMENT!!!!!
This is the info I take to the aliognment shop:
Please align to these specs “1960-1966 Mustang and Falcon Performance Alignment with Shelby dropâ€.
II. GET A PERFORMANCE ALIGNMENT!!!
III. GET A PERFORMANCE ALIGNMENT!!!!!
This is the info I take to the aliognment shop:
Please align to these specs “1960-1966 Mustang and Falcon Performance Alignment with Shelby dropâ€.
Polyurethane bushings would also help.
daze and baddog are right id use global west coilovers sub frame conectors and a watts link on the rear. a monte carlo bar and export brace are the cheapest things to make it handle better if you dont have them.
ORIGINAL: andrewmp6
daze and baddog are right id use global west coilovers sub frame conectors and a watts link on the rear. a monte carlo bar and export brace are the cheapest things to make it handle better if you dont have them.
daze and baddog are right id use global west coilovers sub frame conectors and a watts link on the rear. a monte carlo bar and export brace are the cheapest things to make it handle better if you dont have them.
You mentioned a Watts-link....I've never seen one for sale for a Mustang....lots of Panhard bars but no Watts-links. Would love to have one. Do you know of a supplier?
Ditto on G-W. I installed one of their first upper arm kits about 18 years ago and it made a believer out of me in their ability to tame the understeering beast without resorting to far too stiff springs/bars that only serve to lock the front down and prevent vertical movement so the tire does not stick out at the top under compression. That's where some get the idea that big front bars/springs cause over-steer when in fact a big front bar on a properly designed front will decrease over-steer. On a Mustang the big bars/springs only serve to stop the positive camber gain induced understeer.
ORIGINAL: mikethebike
Yes, start with export/monti-carlo...most return for your handling dollar. No sence in putting all that money in arms, coil overs and such and attach it to a unitized chassis that flexes more than a hot air balloon.
You mentioned a Watts-link....I've never seen one for sale for a Mustang....lots of Panhard bars but no Watts-links. Would love to have one. Do you know of a supplier?
Ditto on G-W. I installed one of their first upper arm kits about 18 years ago and it made a believer out of me in their ability to tame the understeering beast without resorting to far too stiff springs/bars that only serve to lock the front down and prevent vertical movement so the tire does not stick out at the top under compression. That's where some get the idea that big front bars/springs cause over-steer when in fact a big front bar on a properly designed front will decrease over-steer. On a Mustang the big bars/springs only serve to stop the positive camber gain induced understeer.
ORIGINAL: andrewmp6
daze and baddog are right id use global west coilovers sub frame conectors and a watts link on the rear. a monte carlo bar and export brace are the cheapest things to make it handle better if you dont have them.
daze and baddog are right id use global west coilovers sub frame conectors and a watts link on the rear. a monte carlo bar and export brace are the cheapest things to make it handle better if you dont have them.
You mentioned a Watts-link....I've never seen one for sale for a Mustang....lots of Panhard bars but no Watts-links. Would love to have one. Do you know of a supplier?
Ditto on G-W. I installed one of their first upper arm kits about 18 years ago and it made a believer out of me in their ability to tame the understeering beast without resorting to far too stiff springs/bars that only serve to lock the front down and prevent vertical movement so the tire does not stick out at the top under compression. That's where some get the idea that big front bars/springs cause over-steer when in fact a big front bar on a properly designed front will decrease over-steer. On a Mustang the big bars/springs only serve to stop the positive camber gain induced understeer.
Mike,
Evolution motorsports makes a watts link for the 65-66 mustang, shortly they will be releasing a 3 link setup for the mustang that will be bolt it. heres the link.
http://www.evolutionmsport.com/evmCa...products_id=38
kaleb
panhard bar is for drag racing a watts link is more for road racing and works damn good too. mikethebike the tcp rear coil over kit has one but its pricey evolution motorsports has a nice one dodgestang has one from them he loves it.
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