Do you live on a slope in the rain forest? Is it the Monsoon Season? Use wooden nut and bolts?

Anyway, I suggest to anyone who is doing the drop that they buy the template for ten bucks. It makes the job almost foolproof. Get one with only 1/8 pilot holes as starting with a small drill bit is more precise. Best ten bucks I ever spent.
And it's produced by a member.

http://home.bresnan.net/~dazed/drop

 

the spring compressor my dad made is one of the best ive seen, the bottom bolts into the holes that the shocks bolt to, and the top is mad out of a peice of about 14 ga. sheetmetal that is shaped like --__-- that to sit down in the spring, the whole front a-arm is pulled up when the spring is compressed and all you do is lean the spring out and loosen the compressor, ill take pics tomorrow

 

You better take some pictures and post them here or you will be banned for life, and your first born will be named Expialidocious.

 

You won't drop the stance an inch but rather 1/4 to 1/2" at the very most. It's a handling mod more than a stance mod but one of the benefits is that it does drop the stance just a bit.

 

how essential is it to correct the bindingin the upper ball joint?if you do the shelby mod, do you recommend making that correction also?

 

I heard the shelby drop is only good for the 65-68's and that ford stole shelby's idea in 69 and automatically did the "mod" from stock. Is this true? if not, when I do suspension work one day I would consider the shelby drop. I hope its already like that lol

 

dont you need a different upper ball joint if you do the shelby drop

 

This modification was developed in the 60's by Ford suspension engineer Klaus Arning. It was originally designed to improve the effectiveness of the front suspension when mated to a special independent rear suspension which Ford decided was too expensive. The top arm modification was incorporated by Shelby on all 65 and some 66 GT 350's, it was then stopped as a cost saving measure.

The stock ball joints are fine if all you do to lower the front is the drop. Binding issues occur when you combine the drop with lowering springs.

 

I don't think upper ball joint work is required for the 1" drop in UCA bolt holes, although it probably is for greater UCA bolt hole drops. For myself, I'd probably do it anyway, as I would fully expect to be using the improved front grip enough to put the car onto the bump stops from time to time (meaning that I'd still be pushing the upper ball joints up toward their limits of angular travel).

The car will drop by somewhere between about 1/4 and 1/2 of the amount you drop the UCA mounting bolt holes. For appearance considerations it's probably not necessary to be any more precise than that.


Norm

 

double post