Well this is my first post and I already have a problem. I've recently finished the paint and interior on a 1965 fastback (Shelby Clone). This afternoon I put a white face gauge kit in it. I used the stock 1965 cluster. I just had it out about a month ago when I painted the interior, I marked all the the wires and lights and had no problems after the paint work was done. The wires are still marked and I'm 100% sure that they are correct. After installing the white face kit my fuel and temperature gauges will not work. The needles do not move at all. The lights work fine. All the fuses are good. Is it possible that the voltage limiter went bad while I was working on it this afternoon? I'm not sure but I think the voltage limiter is the box that looks somewhat like a relay, on the back of the instrument cluster. Any ideas would be appreciated, I don't know what else to try.
Thanks,
Slimd

 

Ok taking the easy route here...
Are the gauges fuel and temp gauges compatable with the sending units of each? There are at least 3 differentohms for the fuelsending unit. Like thereare sending unit where0 ohms is full or 90 ohms is full or 240 ohms are full. IF you have the wronggauge for the sending unityou will get an inaccurate reading on the guage.You need to make surethe sending units and the gauges are the same!!!!

I say this because they worked BEFORE you swapped gauge but don't work now....

 

Oh and WELCOME to MF!!!

 

Thanks for the welcome. No thats not the problem, the white face kit is just a stick on cover. I did not change the actual gauges.

 

First go back and be 200% sure on the wiring. I've left off the ground lead to the center frame post before, as well as forgetting to attach it to the cluster.

The IVR (Instrument Voltage Regulator) has to be grounded to the back of the panel and in turn grounded to the chassis.
Verify you're getting 12V to the input side of the IVR, and that you didn't get the wires crossed.
Verify that you didn't cross the wires going to the gages themselves.

Short of all that, the most likely issues is the IVR. You can bench test it by putting 12V and seeing if you're getting a 'sort of' 5V out.

Here's how it works:

 

I'd go like they say the ivr,my passed expreinces have been that when everI have to do any kinda electrical stuff,,,pull the battery cable,,,,call it bad mojo or what ever but it just seems for me that even the simplest issue goes worse without doing that,,,just my 2 cents/experience

 

Thanks for the input. JamesW the diagram was helpful, I checked all the wiring and it matched your diagram. I pulled it back apart and noticed that the double sided tape that I used to stick the faces with was atoo thick and was causing the needles to drag. Also the IVR was really hot. I changed the tape and the IVR, the gauges worked one time with cluster out of the dash but now that I put it back in the dash they will not work. I'm afraid I might have messed up the gauges.????? I give up, I'm going to take it to a buddy's next weekend and see if he can fix it. Thanks again.