Just wondering what options are out there for disc brakes. So far i've seen the ones that are in the mustangs plus catalog, but it is a bit pricey.

How hard of a diy is this conversion? Can it be done with a normal tool set, jack, and jack stands?

 

Granada disk brake swap:
http://www.granadaswap.com/guide/Introduction.htm

Granada Disk Brake Swap with new parts- by Dennis Ginsberg
http://www.discbrakeswap.com/The_Granada_Swap_Guide_03.19.3006.v01.pdf

Granada Disk Brake Swap:
http://www.midnightdsigns.com/james/Disc%20Brakes.htm

Granada Disk brake swap and Shelby drop:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/1966/granada.html

Another very good Granada brake swap guide:
http://www.midnightdsigns.com/james/Disc%20Brakes.htm#Installation

Drum to disk brake swap:
http://www.woodyg.com/fairlane/finfo/drumtodisc.html

Granada disk brake swap: By 2bav8
http://www.geocities.com/2bav8/granada.html

How to install Power front disk brakes:
http://mustangmonthly.com/techarticles/mump_0605_1967_ford_mustang_disc_brake_install/

'65-'66 power brake conversion:
http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL326/811984/7711203/t-101446001.jpg

How-To convert to disk brakes for 6 cylinder Mustangs and keep your 4 lugs:
http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/17279/index.html

How to install and tune a proportioning valve:
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/71398_install_brake_proportioning_valve/

Rear disc brakes: http://www.classicperform.com/tech_articles/rear-brakes/rear-brakes-tech.htm

'64-69 Disk Brake Swap by Slickman:
http://www.riale.net/mustang_brake_update.htm

 

and soaring everyone of them was found where, the faq theres tons of info it well worth reading

 

Another option is the Scarebird bracket. Here is a good write up, please add to FAQ
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/358218/3

 

If you have a little ability to fabricate, a set of discs off of a 97-ish grand cherokee can pretty simply be made to fit. It required redrilling the backing plate and caliper bracket, fabricating a ring-spacer placed inside the bearing keeper to eliminate in and out slop,and fabricating aring-spacer around the hub to allow a normal set of wheels center on the axle. It worked very well, and as you can imagine, parts are all over the place for cheap. It was as easy as the Granada swap. It has a little set of "mini-drum brakes" built inside the rotor hub, so the emergency brake does not depend on the calipers and uses the original brake cables. I haven't seen this out there anywhere, so I'm sure it would be scary to impliment.

 

For for sure look at the FAQ, and,,, my son tackled four wheel disk brake conversion on his 66 as basically his first automotive project. He just followed the instructions provided and did it with no problem... He did a set of Wilwoods on the front, (a very,very nice kit), and SSBC on the rear... (a nice kit also, but more complicated, and the directions were not as good.).

He and his friend did this installation with very little input on my part... I would say it is not too difficult... just procedure... (but then I actually didn't do it...... )

 

I did the one from discbrakeswap.com it was very easy. instructions were easy to follow and no problems came from it.

 

I just did the granada front swap on mine from a junkyard "kit" I bought off e-bay - basically spindles, calipers, dust shields, proportioning valve and miscellaneous hardware. Had to buy new pads, calipers, tie rod ends and rotors from local parts store. It was a bolt on swap, piece of cake, and I'm far from an expert. My '68 coupe is my 2nd disc brake swap (first was a '71 F100 with a '76 F150 junkyard swap last summer). I think the total cost for my e-bay parts and local parts store was like $400 - $500 from the tie rod ends out. While the cheapest aftermarket kit will probably be $800 or more.

I would reccommend going this route if you can find a donor car - compatible cars were pretty scarce where I'm at. I think Granada, Monarch, Maverick and... Fairlane? will all bolt right in. You will have to have tie-rod ends from the donor car, not mustang tie-rod ends and you'll need the proportioning valve from the donor car.