booster for drums
Looking for a couple of opinions if anyone has added the brake booster for drum brakes. I was looking at doing this now cause its a little more affordable... then adding disc brakes sometime in the future. But I'm kinda second guessing myself now, thinking it might be better just to wait and do the complete disc swap. The standard drums stop ok, obviously not like power discs. So have any of yall added the booster to drums? would you recommend it??
thanks
thanks
Using a stock '67 brake booster and power brake pedal would be the easiest to install, and it will work with either drum or disc brake setups.
However, there's also the alternative of using the '87-'93 Fox Mustang brake boosters. It is not a direct bolt-in, but the mods are not too difficult and there are two versions of the booster: There's the 2.3L version which is ~4¼" thick by 9" in diameter, and then there's the 5.0L version which is ~6½" thick by 7" in diameter (the 5.0L booster is very close (dimensionally) to the stock '67/'68 brake booster's dimensions).
The 2.3L booster will not work in a '67/'68, with a manual transmission, because the booster covers up the hole in the firewall where the clutch rod passes through. The 5.0L version does work and doesn't cover up the hole in the firewall.
Here's an article I have on my webite about the Fox boosters in a '67/'68 Mustang; http://www.ultrastang.com/Ultrainfo.asp?Page_ID=16
However, there's also the alternative of using the '87-'93 Fox Mustang brake boosters. It is not a direct bolt-in, but the mods are not too difficult and there are two versions of the booster: There's the 2.3L version which is ~4¼" thick by 9" in diameter, and then there's the 5.0L version which is ~6½" thick by 7" in diameter (the 5.0L booster is very close (dimensionally) to the stock '67/'68 brake booster's dimensions).
The 2.3L booster will not work in a '67/'68, with a manual transmission, because the booster covers up the hole in the firewall where the clutch rod passes through. The 5.0L version does work and doesn't cover up the hole in the firewall.
Here's an article I have on my webite about the Fox boosters in a '67/'68 Mustang; http://www.ultrastang.com/Ultrainfo.asp?Page_ID=16
The best booster upgrade would be from the newer Mustangs with the Hydra-Boost system. No vacuum, just hydraulic boost provided by the power steering pump.
IMO, if you get the right master cylinder, you will have no problem giving the brakes enough pressure to stop the car in a hurry. The key is to get a smaller piston (<1")to give you leg a better advantage. Master Power Brakes has an article talking about using manual disc brakes.
IMO, if you get the right master cylinder, you will have no problem giving the brakes enough pressure to stop the car in a hurry. The key is to get a smaller piston (<1")to give you leg a better advantage. Master Power Brakes has an article talking about using manual disc brakes.
Unless you have a knack for doing trick changes and installations, stay with the power brake systemsdesigned for your car. An aftermarketsystem sold by a mail order store is a good option. AVOID the 'use this systemfrom a Hupmobile' advice, there are too many variables.
You will need a longer brake pedal for a stock installation and it attaches a little further up in the brake pedal support bracket. You may have to drill a new hole in the firewall as the power boster has an extra stud for support. There are some that cut this studoff 'cause it don't fit',so a power booster bought reconditioned or used may be more abused then used. New brake lines from the master cylinder are required and a new distribution block may be as well.
Jim
You will need a longer brake pedal for a stock installation and it attaches a little further up in the brake pedal support bracket. You may have to drill a new hole in the firewall as the power boster has an extra stud for support. There are some that cut this studoff 'cause it don't fit',so a power booster bought reconditioned or used may be more abused then used. New brake lines from the master cylinder are required and a new distribution block may be as well.
Jim
In my humble opinion, a power brake booster with drums are like putting hubcaps on a tractor. You can, but what for? The way drums work, they work just a well without a booster. A power booster on drums just won't really help that much. My advice, open a savings account, drop the money you would spend on a booster in there, save up and get the whole kit. That is what I am doing on my 65 when I get ready to do a front drum to disc conversion.
ORIGINAL: jdanbarnes
In my humble opinion, a power brake booster with drums are like putting hubcaps on a tractor. You can, but what for? The way drums work, they work just a well without a booster. A power booster on drums just won't really help that much. My advice, open a savings account, drop the money you would spend on a booster in there, save up and get the whole kit. That is what I am doing on my 65 when I get ready to do a front drum to disc conversion.
In my humble opinion, a power brake booster with drums are like putting hubcaps on a tractor. You can, but what for? The way drums work, they work just a well without a booster. A power booster on drums just won't really help that much. My advice, open a savings account, drop the money you would spend on a booster in there, save up and get the whole kit. That is what I am doing on my 65 when I get ready to do a front drum to disc conversion.
Jim
Maybe I should be more clear. Yes, power is better, no brainer. But is the benifit with drums worth the price? The drums saturate with heat fast enough that usually power becomes ineffective with lots of breaking. Yes, a power upgrade is an option, but do the advantages outweigh the disadvantages? With drums, probably not.


