First questions
I want to do a few things to the 1970 Coupe I just bought. It already has front disk brakes, new power steering, all new front end bushings, a-arms, shocks, springsetc. (The guy I bought it from was gonna make it a racer, but decided to make a Dart his racer instead)Car has all matching numbers. My plans so far is going to dual exhaust w/ headers, new intake and 4-bbl carb, and electronic ignition. I am not looking for a racer, I just want a nice sound and a little power incase I ever want to get on it. Any suggestions. I am open minded and I trust people with more knowledge than I have, as I am new at this.
personally i think a power brake booster is always worth it.... especially if ur looking for power gain.... because you can have all the power in thw world but you need to be able to stop it..... besides that i guess look in to heads or getting work done to your stock ones... becuse unless the motor and heads have been rebuilt your driving with 40 years of gunk and build up... but hey im still pretty new to all this also
What kind of suspension did he put on it? Stock, tubular, coil over?
I did the headers, 4-bbl carb, intake, electonic ignition and exhaust change as well. I think she got a lot more responsive. I did a complete MSD ignition, and if I had it to do over agian, I would lick one with a rev limiter.
If he didn't do it, add some subframe connectors. I did the TCP setup. It stiffens up the car nicely, and makes for a better handling and riding car. I would do that before exhaust. Depending on what set you go with, it could affect how the exhasut is routed.
I did the headers, 4-bbl carb, intake, electonic ignition and exhaust change as well. I think she got a lot more responsive. I did a complete MSD ignition, and if I had it to do over agian, I would lick one with a rev limiter.
If he didn't do it, add some subframe connectors. I did the TCP setup. It stiffens up the car nicely, and makes for a better handling and riding car. I would do that before exhaust. Depending on what set you go with, it could affect how the exhasut is routed.
I have a 351 Cleveland and I am using an Edelbrock Performer intake with a Carter AFB 625 carb. For electronic ignition I am using a Mallory unilite distributor ( module is in the dist. no external box). The headers were on the car when I got it so I don't know the brand.
With the 302 you should use a smaller carb. 500cfm?
You might also think about different rear end gears. I went with 3.89:1 which is good for me but may be too low for you. I run 3000 rpm at 60 mph. 3.55:1 would be better for higher cruising speeds.
Welcome to the forum. Keep us posted, and where are the pictures?
With the 302 you should use a smaller carb. 500cfm?
You might also think about different rear end gears. I went with 3.89:1 which is good for me but may be too low for you. I run 3000 rpm at 60 mph. 3.55:1 would be better for higher cruising speeds.
Welcome to the forum. Keep us posted, and where are the pictures?
one thought about brakes -
if your brakes, power or non-power assisted, stop the wheels from rotating/rolling adequately then they have achieved their purpose. Once wheel rotation has stopped, stopping the car then becomes a function of the friction occuring between the surfaces of the tire and the road contact points. Address your brakes if they are not stopping the rotation or if their response is poor (due to heating for example). Otherwise, the brakes are achieving their goal.
if your brakes, power or non-power assisted, stop the wheels from rotating/rolling adequately then they have achieved their purpose. Once wheel rotation has stopped, stopping the car then becomes a function of the friction occuring between the surfaces of the tire and the road contact points. Address your brakes if they are not stopping the rotation or if their response is poor (due to heating for example). Otherwise, the brakes are achieving their goal.
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