I have a '67 coupe with a stock 289, manual steering, and manual drum brakes. I've been looking at the front disc brake conversion. Anyone who has done this, I have two questions. What is the difference / benefit between the manual disc kit and a power disc kit? Is it worth the extra time, money, weight for a daily driver? If I can find the Granada spindles, is this a better path vs. the complete new kit? Thanks Keith

 

Unless you're going to drive the car on the track, non-assisted discs will work just fine. You can always try it without the booster and add it later if you think you need it.

I went with the Scarebird system since everything except the caliper brackets are new and available at any local parts house. But I'm sure you'll get a lot of advice here about other kits with varying costs.

Good luck!

http://www.scarebird.com

 

I just upgraded from manual drum to power front disc on my '67 coupe. I never even considered not adding a power booster.

My kit came from www.chockostang.com. It included factory original 4-piston calipers and discs. The booster, however, was an aftermarket (SSBC) brand. The aftermarket booster allowed me to use the same brake pedal (if you use an original booster, the pedal must be replaced).

One thing I DIDN'T do was install a proportioning valve. I decided I'd see how the brakes worked without one before I worried about cutting and flairing my lines. The car stops just fine without it (your results may vary).

No matter what you decide to do, don't neglect the rear brakes. Put new cylinders and shoes on the back, and have the drums turned.

 

Interesting. "no proportioning valve"

How does it stop from a panic, lockup at 50mph?

Obviously we approach things from different directions.

Before I spent the money for a power booster, I'd see how I like the pedal feel and stopping power without it, then add it if necessary.
But, I never considered doing the disc/drum setup without a proportioning valve. Maybe I should have tried the system without it first.
(Although I didn't have to pay but $35 for a Wilwood adjustable valve.)

btw: thanks for that chocko link!

 

I took the same approach with the proportioning valve as you are suggesting with the booster - try it without it first. I took the car to a street with very little traffic. I tried slamming on the brakes at various speeds. When theylocked up, the car stopped even and straight. Since this is a weekend / evening driver, and I'm at the age where the gas pedal doesn't have to be on the floorboard everywhere I go, I think the brakes are great.

I took my Mustang from Houston to Austin earlier this month for the MCOA show. That was about a 200 mile trip for me. I left during rush hour traffic in Houston. Coming home, I got caught up in more "hityour brakes hard" traffic. JamesTopless67 was following me. Ask him how my brakes work (he told me he almost hit me a few times). I stopped hard quite a few times, but the brakes never locked up.

If I were to add a proportioning valve at this point, I'd go with this one:

http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/...&year=1967

I also boughtmy power steering upgrade from www.chockostang.com. If you're looking for all-original brakes or steering components, this is your guy.

 

I did the SSBC manual front disk brakes. They made a lot of difference over the drums. I may convert to power at some point, as I enjoy spirited driving on the mountains. I will probably do it whenI add disks to the rear.

 

The Granada swap is pretty simple and there's lots of good instructions in the FAQ on this site. If you can find a junkyard doner, it'll end up being quite a bit cheaper than an aftermarket kit. It's pretty much a bolt in upgrade, I just did this upgrade on my '68, it was pretty painless. I never considered leaving the system manual, I used to drive a '71 F100 with manual drums all the way around, man my leg got tired in stop and go traffic or at a particular long, steep hill with a stop sign at the bottom - granted it's a wee bit heavier than a mustang but I'm lazy... That truck is currently getting rebuilt from the frame up - with power disc brakes. You'll stop better without as much effort on the pedal. Not sure how much weight is added but it wouldn't have much impact on a daily driver.

WAY IMPORTANT - If you do opt for the booster, look for a booster that allows you to keep your manaul brake pedal. If you don't that part is a real PITA just because it sucks crawling under the dash to change/modify your brake pedal and change/modify the pedal support. This part of the manual to power upgrade is not often covered in how-to articles. Just a little "gotcha" that you find out along the way. You can get them from National Parts Depot, and I believe SSBC also. I bought mine from Chockostang as well, very good company to deal with (check out their e-bay store).

 

I have driven nassaubayman's car. Yes it stops. I was following him back from the MOCA show in Austin. There were a few times when he had to stop because some idiot in front of him decided it was a great time to test his ABS system. nassaubayman's car stopped fine. I was behind him in my car doing leg presses trying not to eat his rear bumper. I have manual brakes on my 67. After I add A/C to my car I am going to add the kit from Chockostang.

 

Geez, James. I don't think I'd ever admit that I was going to get A/C BEFORE upgrading my brakes, especially since (A) you have a convertible, and (B) summer is almost over. [8D]

But I definitely know where you're coming from. This Houston heat is rough. My wife's 2004 GT Convertible doesn't get the top put down much these days.

 

With the Convertible in Houston heat not only do you melt into the seats but you get to get a sun burn at the same time!Added bonus!