Good to learn about the proportioning valve. Next project I do I'll test before spending the time and money on a valve. :+

 

James,
I'm glad to see I'm not the only convertible driver that wants a/c. I went to Daytona this weekend for the show at Gary Yeoman Ford, I got burned up.
Wayne

 

This is what I'm running, and it will fit your car. I have a booster, but I don't believe you need one unless running it hard. http://www.mustangsteve.com/cobrabrakes.html

 

pedal effort is the advantage on a booster equiped car...less then a manual set up...I just finished a disc conversion on a 68 cougar...the kit was from "powermaster brakes" I believe?? I had to change pedals and added a booster but the kit was complete and was designed to bolt to the stock spindles = no alignment needed and was quick and easy......and pedal instal was easy to it relocates to a predrilled 3/8 hole in the quadrant all in all it took a total of 10 hrs with minimal line reconstruction/ reconfiguration.

 

Not to hijack, but can you add the booster later to convert to power? Is that all there is too it? I was going to go with Mustang Steves front kit and hadn't decided to go power. It's not going to be a track car.....

 

sure, you can add it anytime

 

really you'd need to add the booster and change the master cylinder to a power master cylinder. The power MC will have a larger bore diameter than a manual MC. Not exactly sure what would occur if you were to use a manual master cylinder on a booster, seems like it might make the pedal spongy or require a lot of pedal to stop. Check the tech section at www.MBMBrakeBoosters.com You may also run into the brake pedal issue mentioned above unless you get a booster designed to allow you to use the original manual pedal location.

 

Thanks for the info......

 

Yea the Mustang Steve setup is less expensive than most of the granada kits from what I've seen and it looks good, and works well.

 

I run manual brakes on mine, Wilwood discs up front and factory drums in the rear. It'll drag my car down from about 110mph for the first turn off at the strip, without too much effort. No tire lock or anything, though I could if I really got on it. Pedal effort in a manual depends on a series of things, mainly surface area of the brake pistons and surface area of the m/c piston. I could go to a smaller diameter m/c and have less pedal effort for the same pressure, just have to press the pedal a bit farther to move the necessary volume. 98% of the time I have modest pedal effort for major stopping power, rarely do I ever have to really stand on the brakes. And you should do a proportioning valve anyway, just because it lets you balance your brake bias for best stopping power