If I were to put in an RPM Eledlebrock cam or something with about the same specs, wouldstock internals hold up?? Two things are keeping me from a bigger cam. Knowledge of what other parts should be changed or upgraded and if I could run a 2 barrel carb/intake on it for a while without suffocating it for air/fuel.. Im still just boggling my mind about what parts I want to put in the motor..

 

I wouldn't waste time or money on a motor that has 100K on it, but if your motor is strong, with no issues such as oil leaks, burning oil, blow-by, etc, then a mild setup like performer should be fine.

 

if your going to do a cam swap your gonna want two things (well, three really)

new stiffer springs
4bbl intake & carb
better exhaust


but i give a thumbs up to all of the above.

btw if your wanting to stay stock looking with your 2bbl intake and carb, ford used 500 cfm autolites on some of the big blocks, it looks just like a 350 cfm unit used on the small blocks. at least this is what i have heard

 

There are three major mechanical concerns when upgrading your cam, the greatestissue affecting all of these concernsis cam lift.

When cam lift is increased there is a possibility of piston valve clearance issues. In my experience if you keep the valve lift to about .5 orless, this is usuallynot a major concern for an otherwise stock engine, (stock pistonconcerning it's dome/dish).

Thesecond issue is valve springs. As lift increases stock valve springs may "bind". This happens when the spring becomes fully compressed, and therefore becomes like a solid block of metal, bent pushrods or broken rockers will result, if not a broken cam or wiped lobe. You will want to make sure that the valve springs that you use can accommodate the lift. By getting a cam with near stock lift, you can avoid this problem. Also, if the new cam raises the operating RPM of the engine in a significant manner, you will need stronger springs to prevent valve float. On a flat tappet cam it is advisable to break the cam in with weaker springs and then go to stronger ones once break in is complete.

The third issue has to deal with limitations of the stock rocker arms, with valve lift being the major concern once again. Stock lifters have a limited travel. By selecting a cam with lift close to stock this problem can be eliminated.

The long and short of the story is that if you watch your valve lift, and keep it close to stock, you should not have any problems with an upgrade cam whatsoever.

About a month ago we stuck a pretty hot (and tall) cam in my son's 350 Chevy, we put new springs and rocker arms in without really worrying about piston to valve clearance, thankfully everything worked just fine....

So I am saying do whatever you want with duration, lobe separation, etc. without fear, just watch your lift.

 

i've never know anyone to do this [&:]

 

Frankly neither have I,,, but I have alays heard that we should do so when running heavy springs,,, I was thinking it might not be a bad idea with this "new oil" we have now, if runningheavy springs!!

 

shell rotella FTW when it comes to breaking in the motor, after i heard all the crap about additives being missing. i gotta wonder about the delvac and pennzoil diesel oil. if they both have the zinc and whatnot or if its just shell. i've always been a "yellow bottle" guy and would like to use pennz if possible

 

Rotella T is fine, as is pretty much any diesel oil. I've found that the Napa brand 15W-40(repackaged Valvoline) has a very high Zinc content, and it's cheap,so that's what I'm using on my new cam. First one got lunched a couple months ago:-|

 

The zinc is leavingthe diesel oil as well. It won't work with the upcoming 09 emissions. Retailers wont want to stock two oils,, so out with the zinc.

It may be that it does not work with the 07 emissions, if so it is already gone,,,, just cant remember for sure, but I know after 08, the zinc is history for sure.

 

[:@][:@][:@][:@][:@]

i wonder if anyone sells additives? maybe i need to buy a few gallons for future break ins [8D]