68 Cougar 302.
Alright...
Well, my buddy and I just bought a 66 Coupe with a 68 Cougar 302 in it. We're having a bit of a problem. Attempting to start it this morning, we were cranking, but no fire-up. I'm assuming it's a lack of spark through the distributor, but is there another problem that I don't know about? The original distributor is still in the block, a motorcraft... We have an aftermarket starter/distributor, but it doesn't fit too well with the existing electrical system. Again, we're cranking just fine, but no start-up. I'm assuming it's a lack of spark. However, the starter solenoid is hotter than hell and was also wondering if that was normal?
I'm a Chevy guy, but I'm here begging for help from you seasoned Ford guys who've been around the block with the Ford blocks for my buddy's sake.
Also, we're leaking fuel from our carb, specifically from the bottom of the unit and the manifold, but, the gasket is brand new and so is the carb, but still leaking. All four bolts are tight holding it to the int. manifold.
I'd really love the help!
Thanks!
Sean Dickerson
66 Stang Coupe; 302/69 Camaro 502 SC
Well, my buddy and I just bought a 66 Coupe with a 68 Cougar 302 in it. We're having a bit of a problem. Attempting to start it this morning, we were cranking, but no fire-up. I'm assuming it's a lack of spark through the distributor, but is there another problem that I don't know about? The original distributor is still in the block, a motorcraft... We have an aftermarket starter/distributor, but it doesn't fit too well with the existing electrical system. Again, we're cranking just fine, but no start-up. I'm assuming it's a lack of spark. However, the starter solenoid is hotter than hell and was also wondering if that was normal?
I'm a Chevy guy, but I'm here begging for help from you seasoned Ford guys who've been around the block with the Ford blocks for my buddy's sake.
Also, we're leaking fuel from our carb, specifically from the bottom of the unit and the manifold, but, the gasket is brand new and so is the carb, but still leaking. All four bolts are tight holding it to the int. manifold.
I'd really love the help!
Thanks!
Sean Dickerson
66 Stang Coupe; 302/69 Camaro 502 SC
Tighten your fuel line to fix the leak. Don't try to start it until you've gotten the fuel leak fixed!
If you have a timing light, hook it up and crank the engine to check for spark.If you don't have a timing light, remove one spark plug, put the plug wire on it, hold it with insulated pliers against a good ground (part of the frame) and have a friend crank it. Be careful, you can get the $hit shocked out of you if the ground is not good or you are not holding it with insulated grip pliers. You should see a good, intense spark.
If you have a timing light, hook it up and crank the engine to check for spark.If you don't have a timing light, remove one spark plug, put the plug wire on it, hold it with insulated pliers against a good ground (part of the frame) and have a friend crank it. Be careful, you can get the $hit shocked out of you if the ground is not good or you are not holding it with insulated grip pliers. You should see a good, intense spark.
+1 on the fuel leak. I would check the accelerator pump as the source. Could be a bad diaphragm leaking. The fuel inlet and accelerator pump are the only real places the leak could be coming from (barring a float stuck open). Oh, forgot to mention I'm assuming this is a stock carb.
While we're talking about fuel, open the airhorn to see if you have fuel in the bowl. Who knows...maybe you have spark but no fuel.
Good luck.
While we're talking about fuel, open the airhorn to see if you have fuel in the bowl. Who knows...maybe you have spark but no fuel.
Good luck.
You can also get some starting fluid. Just spray some down the carb throat. If it starts (it will die soon) then you have a fuel delivery problem. If not, then proceed with the tests mentioned above for spark.
You can also simply take one of the plug wires off the dist cap and hold it close - as stated above this could get you a nasty shock if you don't hold it close to the cap and keep your fingers away from the copper contacts.
Chevy or Ford or whatever, you still need spark, fuel, timing to get an engine running.If starting fluid or pouring a small amount of fuel into thecarb doesn't start it, check for spark, and if you still don't start youprobably have a timing problem... which means taking the water pump and timing chain cover off to verify.
Chevy or Ford or whatever, you still need spark, fuel, timing to get an engine running.If starting fluid or pouring a small amount of fuel into thecarb doesn't start it, check for spark, and if you still don't start youprobably have a timing problem... which means taking the water pump and timing chain cover off to verify.
Okay... we poured gas down the carb, and got a few backfires, but that's about it. So, we are checking the timing, now. I'm assuming that we are getting some kind of spark because of the backfires. Still trying to diagnose the problem. By the way the engine is cranking, it's got to be the timing, so, again, we're checking that out.
Thanks!!
Thanks!!
You say the other dist don't fit so well? Did you have the one in your 302 out? Maybe you stabbed it wrong and your timing is off. The backfiring through the carb is an indicator bad timing.
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