Hey guys, I'm in the process of putting my newly rebuilt 289 engine back into place. Thanks to JMB for the advice on disconnecting the rear-end of the drive shaft, in order for the flywheel and bellhousing to mate easier...thanks man!

Next Question: I think I won't have any problem as far as installing everything back the way it was ( I took pictures as well as put all the different parts/bolts in seperate bags and lebeled) but my question is how do I clock and install my distributer back correctly:? I'm about to swing by a local shop to pickup the tool that's slides down the shaft where the distributer goes so that you can pump oil throughout the engine before you crank it, But the installation process is something I need clarification on. thanks

~Patrick

 

With the engine at TDC for #1 cyl, drop the dist in the hole with the rotor pointing at the position where #1 plug wire is (I usually, take a tire crayon and mark the dist housing below the cap) with the vac advance pointing somewhat forward, setthe distdown in the hole. It should seat all the way down on the manifold and may take some wiggling of the housing to get it all the way down. If you can't seem to get it all the way down, remove the dist and with the oil pump turning tool, move the oil pump shaft slightly. Try the process over again.

 

Any time man!

I am glad everything worked out.

For setting the distributor you will want to pull the #1 sparkplug, the front plug on the passenger side.

You will need a helper to "bump" the starter while you have the end of your finger in the plug hole. you will feel the compression come past your finger (air coming out of the motor), be looking at the timingmark on the front of the engine. The objective is to have the timing marks line up right after air starts to come out. At this point you are at TDC of the firing stroke. (pointer pointing to -0- )

Once this is right, it is time to drop the distributor, you will want the rotor on the distributor to point right toward the front of the car, if slightly toward the passenger side... The distributor is roughly timed now, but the oil pump shaft is probably not seated corectly. To do this you will need a helper to bump the engine again while you put a gentle pressure on the distributor case, the distributor should "drop" down into place.

Now you will want to install the hold down, snug it down, but leave it loose enough that you can still move the distributor, but not really easy to move.

Install your plug wires, hook up a timing light androll the engine over, turn the distributor body to get the timing close to spec. the car will start in this process. Once the engine is timed to spec with the timing light, (vacuum hose unhooked and plugged), tighten down the hold down and re-connect vac hose.

You will want the engine running at idle speed when making your final timing adjustment.

 

to find TDC, pull the valve cover over #1, and look at the intake valve spring, i believe it's the inside spring. rotate the motor by hand, and when the spring returns to normal, look at the balancer to find the TDC mark. should be very close. The reason I say this, because its very easy to put in a distributor 180 degrees out, and not realize it until you start the car. second, remember the distr pickup will move about one inchas the distr drops into place, so you have to compensate for the movement. you want the pickup, and the mark on the distr housing for #1, and TDC to all line up when you're done. only then do you put the cap on the distr and set yourrough initial timing.

 

thanks guys we're trying to get it working now....Only problem now I'm having is the clutch pedal feels like a slingshot...very tight and a quick return as well when I push it in, i think it's adjusted incorrectly....any hints to this? Only adjustment I see is the threaded rod, with the pivot point. thanks

 

I hope you got that clutch issue sorted out, and I hope it was an adjustment issue!!

I kind of freak when a clutch does not feel right, that is usually when I have learned that there are lots of throwout bearings (etc.)that "will fit", but only one that actually works.... [:@][:@]

 

Haha so did I...The thought of having put the engine all back together just to have a tranny problem would have been really frustrating especially with school putting pressure on me to have my ride back up and running...The clutch problem is an adjustment issue I believe. Being a fresh engine the compression seemed high even getting my old battery to turn it over, and whatnot, but after taking it for a spin around the block, the clutch is fine I believe.