I was wondering how hard it is to remove a 302 out of a 66 coupe. I have done many engine swaps , i just would like to know how hard it would be on a 1 - 10 scale . i will be dropping in a Ford Racing 302ci GT-40. Just wondering thanks much .

 

If you have a little experience , pulling an engine from a car, its very easy.
Remove radiator & hoses, heater hoses too, disconnect exhaust, wiring, linkages, fuel lines, remove carb(saves it from getting beat up) Get the engine supported on the hoist, disconnect engine mounts & tranny(removong engine tranny assly. is really easier than just the engine, if removing just engine, support tranny(I usually just string some support wire from the shock tower mounts at firewall. Double check every thing is disconnected & lift out with engine hoist.
I prolly missed a disconnect, just double check, and while pulling the engine out, if something feels hung, dont try to muscle it out. Find whats not letting go or snagged relieve it & procede.

 

I just pulled my 289 out of my 66 this weekend. Not an experienced professional at it either, but know my way around. It took around 2 hours for a friend and myself to pull it out. And we did take time to do other things. It's not bad. The c4 came with it so, that was easier.

Only problem was the long tube headers had to come off. Passenger side was hitting shock tower, and driver side was hitting rack and pinion.

 

Forddid a great job at making these cars easy to work on. An engine swap on an early Mustang will be as easy as any swap on any other production car,(easier than the vast majority).

There are a couple of issues when swapping a late engine into an early Mustang, among these issues are:

Dipstick placement - Early Fords on the front timing cover passenger side. The late timing covers can be drilled to accommodate.

No provisions for clutch bell crank on engine, Bolt on kit may be purchased.

Many late crate engines are equipped with rear sump oil pans, can be resolved with new pan and oil pump pick-up, ones from old engineshould work.

If equipped with water pump, verify direction of rotation, v-belt and serpentine belts are different.

Not sure I got all of the issues, but there are no major issues anyway...

 

I recently put a Ford Racing crate motor in my '65. There is already a provision for the dipstick in the front timing cover. Remove the plug, insert early style dipstick in hole and use plug in side of block where rear sump dipstick once resided. There isn't a fuel pump cam eccentric on the engine but there is a provision for it on the timing cover. Either add the eccentric or go with an electric pump. Your crank pulley may not line up with the others if you use the original v-belt ones (not to mention potential3 vs. 4 hole crank pulley depending on your original). You may have to either use a serpentine setup or buy a 50 oz. balancer with the early style offset. As mentioned, a manual tranny will require either a bolt on pivot bracket or you can go with a cable or hydraulic. You're going to need a radiator with a left lower outlet or a crossover tube. I *think* you could use a right side water pump but then you'd have issues with blocking the timing pointer.

If I left something important out, let me know. Oh yeah, the engine comes with some nice EFI valve covers. If you're using a carb you'll want some different ones with provisions for breathers.

Good luck!
Jeff

 

Not a difficult swap....I spent this labor day weekend "laboring" over putting back in my rebuilt 289 and it wasn't difficult at all....In fact most my problems came from a hunt for an electrical short, and that alone took more time than the engine R and R.

 

Yea, I found that out the hard way,, I had to buy one of these...

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...=KeywordSearch

the .938 spacer is the one I needed.... The $65.00 spent would have gone a long way toward getting the right balancer to begin with...