Ok so I decided that when I rebuild a 302 to replace my 289 that I would like to go with a solid lifter cam (I know it can be a PITA to have to adjust the valves) but I havent had a chance to talk to the machine shop yet and was wondering if any body has done this and how much I should expect it to cost. I would probly get all new springs, guids and seats ect. to rebuild the origional heads its a 68 engine. thanks KC

 

Well How deep are your pockets? What you ask is going to be expensive unless you can do some of the machine work yourself. Why do want to run solid lifters? If it's just for the sound of it. Save yourself some grief and get a set of Rhoads Lifters. They will give you a smoother idle, the soundand better top end performance.
Cost abt $100 per set. What kind of cam are you going to buy? Street, strip, racing? There are three grinds of cams, hydraulic, soild and roller....What kind of engine do you have, rebuilt, some milage, or lots of milage? Do you have an automatic, manual trans? What is the gearing setup in the differential? All of this plays an important part in what cam setup to buy...Once you answer the questions, then you can decide on a cam. A set of stock rebuilt heads about $365.00. That's using the heads off your engine. If you decide to add new springs, screw-in rocker studs, teflon coated valve seals, new valves, larger valves the price goes up dramatically. Not trying to talk you out of what you want to do...but avoid some of the mistakes that are made when buying a cam set and head work. Good luck and hope this helps.
PCTK
ASE Engines

 

If it's for street use you'd be about10 times better of with a hydraulic roller. Solid flat tappets are ok, but you have to adjust them, they constantly make noise and you won't make the power you will with a 0 maintence hydroller cam. If you do go solid, get GOOD stuff, and maintain it frequently

 

If I was going to go through my last engine todaywith the idea of adjusting lash, it would be with a moderate solid roller grind. Not that I remember occasional lash adjustment to be that big a deal or all that frequent.

Actually, I suspect that flat-tappet solid lifters will be more sensitive than flat-tapper hydraulics to the current oil formulations even after being broken in (read: more likely to fail due to lower EP additive content). Zero cushioning of the shock as the lash is taken up, and all sliding friction.


Norm

 

The modern oils are a good point, you'd have to take special precautions for a solid flat tappet, and it wouldn't be able to be very large since you'd need modest spring pressure. Another reason for rollers, though rollers are what caused the additives in oils for flat tappets to go away

 

Well I do just want the noise but I will look into the Rhods lifters. The car is mostly stock and I want to keep that look that is why I dont want to go super wild with aluminum heads and such, But it does have tri-ys and I wanted to put tri-power on it so that is why I thought the solid lifters would be kinda cool. I think that I will just bag the adjustable valvetrain and get a good mild lopy cam but I will have to get the heads redone becaust the history on the motor is unknown. thanks for the help KC