I have ceramic coated headman shorties on mine......They hold up great no discoloration, no rust, does not rub off.

Gun

 

I had cermanic coated headers on my 1990 5.0. The coating eventually started to come off and a little bit of surface rust began to appear in spots. But it took several years and tens of thousands of miles.

 

mine are from ford powertrain ap i sent them to jethot i love them nice and shinney. i can pop the hood right after a long drive and im not hit with a heat wave.you could do a before and after test like stick a temp probe in your tail pipe see how hot it is later. i love it mostly since they cant rust and nothing can stick to them.

 

What is the real advantages to them? I just opted for painted ones ($150, and i'm not evensure if it will run, so..). Underhood temps, I know, but what does that really mean? I have EFI, so I'm concerned about cooking my wires, but surely won't get that hot, and I PLAN (Don't know if it will work yet) to have my air filter passing through the fender apron (Battery is relocated to trunk). So is it just so your engine doesn't pick up hot air, or am I missing something?

 

I've had the BBK ceramic coated shorties on my 84 for 6 years of daily driving. Look the same as when I put them on. They sure seem to cool down alot faster than painted ones.

 

I bought a set from Jet Hot. It seemed easier than sending mine in to get coated. They coat the inside and outside. I then sold the uncoated ones I took off at a swap meet.

My experience has been much more manageable temps under the hood and in the car.I am running longtubes, so the follow the firewall. The heat would not only be in the engine bay, but also in the cabin.

Heat control in the engine bay is more than just cool air for the engine to breath. I figure I am keeping the brake fluid cooler, helping the cooling system, as it does not have to fight as much environmental heat, and of course it is much more friendly to the wires, both plug wires and general wiring.

There is a claim that keeping the heat in the exhaust aids in flow, so there could be a small power gain. I don't know about that, I think it would be minial at best.

For me the coating has been durable, and looks good.

I plan to do it with all my headers and such from now on.

 

I've had my Tri-Y headers ceramic coated about 8 years ago and still look as good as the day I put them on. They were originally chrome and that did not last long.

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I bought the painted Hooker Competition headers for $160,, I havent put them on yet because the motor is out of the car, but when they do start to chip and rust I plan on getting them blasted and coated at a nearby shop..

 

why are you getting "custom" try y's? you can buy some of the best try y's made from dougs headers, 1 5/8 or 1 3/4 tubes, I run a set for a 351w in a 67 and they are built like a rock. Dougs is really Doug Thorleys company but doug thorley headers is not, his wife took the company in a divorce 15 or so years ago but he still has Dougs headers which was bought by patriot or pertronix, but thier headers are top notch and not cheap.

my 67 http://htwheelz.smugmug.com

 

good question!
the car is an Australian Falcon GT. Its right hand drive, so no one in the US makes anything off the shelf that will fit. No one here makes a shelf header with primary ports big enough for the 225 AFR's on the engine. Those heads are relatively new here, so next time i need a set it probably wont be an issue.

btw i founda tech article that says the ceramic coateds are a good thing especially if done inside as well as outside. However if you look closely, the dyno shows a drop in power and torque.
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...ngs/index.html

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