Could it be the transmission? The transmission shifts so hard into second I keep thinking something is going to break, it could also be that I have only driven cars later than 2003 before this car and that im no used to it but i don't know.


It seems like the car takes off pretty slow and then by the time it gets to 10mph it goes pretty fast to 30, then slowly keeps up to 40 then 50 but its like im driving a old truck or something after before I get to 10 and after 30.

 

Switch to a 4 barrel carb and a better intake. It will make a huge difference...

 

Bah, just put some nawz on it!! Every time you think it's going too slow, just press the button! Toot toot!!! [sm=nxsmile.gif]

 

i guess it could be the tranny...does it feel like it is slipping?

 

what would that feel like? If it was slipping? Its auto tranny also. The hard shifting might also be because a shift kit, I think one of the pervious owners installed one.

 

my guess is that this is an H code motor there should be a vin number on the engine and the fifth place should be a letter either H, M, R, or Q. The H code engines are the most generic and most used, they came with a 2v carb and a low compression, their purpose was as a street car not a race design. Don't be detered though my 73 mach 1 started as the same engine and now it's pushing 700 horses without the help of nitros or forced air induction. with a good set of heads, a good intake manifold a 750cfm 4v carb, and a set of headers you can easily push 450 to 550 horses. Be sure to check your engine code first because there are a few truck engines that were based on the cleveland design the 351m/400 is technicaly a cleveland and they pretty much suck, there's not a lot that can be done they we're under powered and not really made with race purposes in mind.

 

and one other thing the first number in the vin should be the year it was made 9=1969, 0=1970, 1=1971 ect.

 

well I replaced the air filter and I noticed a pretty good performance increase, still not burn out speed but its a nice increase, also I guess me and the mechanic has a misunderstanding with the mechanic, I guess he never replaced the points on the distributer because he wanted me to buy a electric one and he would install it as part of the tune up, so I got the electric one and I should have him install it in the next few days, Ill see how the car does after that.

Also I have some pictures of the engine and I found some codes on the intake manifold. Maybe you guys can help me identify this engine, I didnt find any VIN codes unless those are the ones on the manifold.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...9/IMG_0053.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...9/IMG_0052.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...9/IMG_0037.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...9/IMG_0048.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...9/IMG_0033.jpg

 

I think you need to talk to your mechanic. A full tune up means the following
Points replaced.
Condenser replaced,
Distributor cap replaced
Rotot button replaced
Spark plug replaced
Spark Leads replaced (sometimes)
Air filter replaced
Timing/dwell set
Idle speed set
This will give you a full tune and will be also good as you car will get without further modifications. However, if the engine is badly worn, you are pretty much wasting you time and money.
With regards to the tuneup, do some more reading, buy yourself a timing light, and you can do all of this yourself in an afternoon.
You can get a minor tune up, which would just be points and timing set, but for the first one, I'd get the whole lot done to give you a good baseline to start with.
As for the Pertronix II. If your dizzy is badly worn, you wont see much benifit of using the Pertronics. You would be better going for a replacement elec dizzy, rather that that retro fit type. If your dizzy is in good shape, the pertronixs will be fine, and tuning becomes much easier.

 

EDIT: Delete this if possible, some reason it double posted