its a stretch to make it connect...
So I replaced the speedo gear, cable (lubed it up before installing it too), and unit trying to figure out what was wrong and why niddle still bounces... so what do I check next?
Also my rear wheels "wobble" however they are 6 months old and only 2.5k miles on them and I balanced them when I got them however it did sit for about 2 months during the summer.
I jacked the rear of the car up and put it in drive to try and figure out why the needle was bouncing and that's when I saw the wobble however I do not feel any symptoms..
I doubt I could have bent both axles, unless they have been bent for the last 2.5years I have owned the car...
I doubt both rear wheel weights would have fallen off...
I replaced all the bearings and seals in the rear end last January
The trany was replaced about 3 months ago and the problem was there before and didn't change with the new trany
So I am thinking that somehow the wheels are out of round or the axles are bent causing the wheels to speed up, slow down, speed up, slow down like a U-Joint does in operation but while doing that it has a mechanical connection to the trany and drive gear so it slows it down and speeds it up over and over causing the needle to bounce.... I really don't want to do any more work on my rear end so if anyone has a simpler solution then that would be great..... there is also a vibration in the engine that is not very bad and I have no idea how its connected to the trany except by being bolted to it and vibrating it but I cant imagine that.... anyway I am sure I am WAY out in left field but that's my best idea...
Now its your turn to rip me apart and give me a better idea...
Also my rear wheels "wobble" however they are 6 months old and only 2.5k miles on them and I balanced them when I got them however it did sit for about 2 months during the summer.
I jacked the rear of the car up and put it in drive to try and figure out why the needle was bouncing and that's when I saw the wobble however I do not feel any symptoms..
I doubt I could have bent both axles, unless they have been bent for the last 2.5years I have owned the car...
I doubt both rear wheel weights would have fallen off...
I replaced all the bearings and seals in the rear end last January
The trany was replaced about 3 months ago and the problem was there before and didn't change with the new trany
So I am thinking that somehow the wheels are out of round or the axles are bent causing the wheels to speed up, slow down, speed up, slow down like a U-Joint does in operation but while doing that it has a mechanical connection to the trany and drive gear so it slows it down and speeds it up over and over causing the needle to bounce.... I really don't want to do any more work on my rear end so if anyone has a simpler solution then that would be great..... there is also a vibration in the engine that is not very bad and I have no idea how its connected to the trany except by being bolted to it and vibrating it but I cant imagine that.... anyway I am sure I am WAY out in left field but that's my best idea...
Now its your turn to rip me apart and give me a better idea...
Speedo needle bouncing is usually due to friction/no friction within the speedo cable or the speedo head. Take the car to a speedo shop and have them look at the head/cable/ gears.
Wobble is relative. The only way to determine if the tires or wheels are out of round (or out of vertical plane)is to put a dial indicator on them and slowly spin them around to see the deflection.There is usually a tolerance of some value and all tires have some natural unroundness. Trying to look at a tire visually and pronounce it "good" is too subjective. It the out of roundness is too severe, the whole car will shake at a resonant speed.
Have you checked the servo gear in the back of the tranny. That is the gear that the plastic speedo gear engages onto in the removable back section of the trans.
Almost sounds like the car might have been jumped in the past.
Almost sounds like the car might have been jumped in the past.
Well no I have not checked the servo gear however I have replaced the trany... so what is the chance that I got a different trany with the same bad servo.
Also while driving it I made a discovery, anything below 30mph will bounce the needle really bad but once you get to/above 30mph it will go almost completely perfect varying by only one or two mph.
And I will not take it to a shop, unless I just don't have the tools/equipment... If I can't fix this problem on my own then I guess the last 1.5 years of automotive school was a waste and I should just drop out and be a burger flipper and MC Donald's.
Also while driving it I made a discovery, anything below 30mph will bounce the needle really bad but once you get to/above 30mph it will go almost completely perfect varying by only one or two mph.
And I will not take it to a shop, unless I just don't have the tools/equipment... If I can't fix this problem on my own then I guess the last 1.5 years of automotive school was a waste and I should just drop out and be a burger flipper and MC Donald's.
Sometimes if the cable is too tight (not long enough) and makes a tight bend, it can cause the needle to bounce. You may see if you can maybe re-route the cable and see if that cures it. It will cost you only a few minutes.
thats what I thought too thats why I was extra careful to not put any kind of kinks in the cable as I ran it.... the only thing I can think of is the cable but how can I have 2 bad cables in a row?
I bought one awhile back trying to fix the problem and it didn't go away and as I was tweaking it I broke it and bought a different one thats in my car now (both new from NPD) then greased it before I put it in, so what gives. what am I doing wrong?
I bought one awhile back trying to fix the problem and it didn't go away and as I was tweaking it I broke it and bought a different one thats in my car now (both new from NPD) then greased it before I put it in, so what gives. what am I doing wrong?
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