I replaced my master with a dual one,Installed an adjustable proportioning valve,new (soft)brake lines with stainless to calipers, both wheel cylinders in back.I did bench bleed the master.I had absolutely no petal pressure so i bought a vacuum bleeder and it pulls fluid and air out but no more petal pressure from before.My question is about how long would it take to bleed them properly and how long until i have some petal pressure? Disk/drum car by the way

 

May take a few times bleeding the brakes to get all the air out of the new lines you installed. Just make sure your master cylinder stays topped off while bleeding to prevent air getting back into the system during the process (but you probably knew that already). Otherwise, you might check for air leaks in the line or at the connections....keep us posted on your findings...

 

Thanks,yeah that I know,its always good to have a reminder though.I am pretty well seasoned in mustang repair, but just dont know how long it should take..Ill let know what i find

 

It took me over 2 hours to properly bleed all four brakes when I put in a new master cylinder. Make sure you startwith R rear, then Lrear, then R front, then L front. BTW - thanks for reminding me of one of the most tedious and boring repair jobs EVER! jk...

 

Agreed! Also, do you have any hard lines that have a loop in their configuration? Sometimes air gets trapped in there. And good for you for updating your MC!! Excellent safety upgrade!

 

Does the new dual master use the same stroke of the factory pedal.
Reason I ask is I just put mine together from Rod and customs same set up front disc and rear drum.
Min had the correct set up in the junction block pre plumbed.
I did have to change the rod on the break pedal it was too short.
The kit had the right one

 

thats the thing.I heard that i was supposed but when i compared my old rod to the new one the new one was longer.But when i put it in the car it appears to sit closer to the floor than before.How far should the petal actually be from the floor.And thanks rorin, Im actually glad to hear that someone else had to spend that much time on bleeding.

 

I have seen the pedal re-drilled to fix that but cant remember if it was higher up or lower.
Guess just kinda look @ it and mabey test it with a hose clap a couple of times before you drill.

 

O i see what youre saying.I like that idea.