1966 289 4-V w/ 3 spd manual

Ok - Just a question out of curiosity. I have searched ALL the FAQ's and Internet search engines to no avail. I have found answers on converting a C4 to T-5 or Tremec but not one goes into detail on a 3-Spd to a T-5.

If I wanted to convert my 3-Spd to a T-5, what is required? I have found where I can purchase a new T-5 for $1,300 then a conversion kit for $390. It appears that this is everything that I need? Appears that I can keep my existing bell housing but not sure on the driveshaft length?

Also, if I want to replace my clutch, I assume this is the time to do so? How about up top? What shifter kit do I need? I don't want a race shifter, just smooth weekend cruiser.

So aside from the T-5 and conversion kit, anything else you all recommend? Just trying to estimate the total cost and complication of doing such.

 

First get hold of Glen Buzak at Rosehill Performance in Houston and get a guarenteed rebuilt T-5 for around half that. No reason to spend 1300 bucks. For that matter, you can pick up wrecking yard T-5 for 3-500 all day long.

When I did mine, I didn't use any 'conversion kit'. I used all 89-92 Mustang parts from engine flywheel back to driveshaft yoke. The only thing I had to do was have the flywheel rebalance to match the early model motor's imbalance. I took the late model flywheel to a shop and they changed the imbalance from the stock 50oz down to the early model 28oz. After that, it was
- a stock T-5 bellhousing
- King Cobra Clutch and pressure plate
- stock throwout bearing and roller shaft bearing
- stock throwout arm
- stock T-5
- stock T-5 yoke.

1) had to get the T-5 yoke mated to my old driveshaft and the length adjusted to fit my car.
2) need to decide if you're going to go with a hydraulic or cable clutch. The Z-bar linkage you have for your 3 speed will not work.
3) stock shifter that comes with the T-5 is fine, but you may want to go with a nice tighter, shorter throw after market shifter.
4) invest in a new pmgr mini starter

Check out my webpages on hydraulic and cable clutches. Other places like MustangSteve and JMC have turnkey solutions if you're not into fabbing yourself.

 

You don't really need to go to all that trouble if you don't want to. It's perfectly possible to use the stock bellhousing and flywheel. All you need is an adaptor plate to fit between the bellhousing and tranny, and a new crossmember. Then you can keep your factory flywheel, bellhousing, and clutch linkage. You still need to have the driveshaft altered, though.

http://www.mustangsplus.com/xcart/pr...437&page=1

And yes, I would definitely replace the clutch while you're in there. Having driven a car with a Pro 5.0 shifter I'd probably go that way if I had the money, but you can do that later if you want.

 

I bought my kit from cj pony parts for around 550.00 and picked up a rebuilt t-5 for 200.00 pluss 20 dollars for the latemodel bell housing.....and let me tell you using the latemodel bellhousing vs the adapter plate was a lot quicker...= didn't have to drill all the extra holes for the adapter plate..but both ways work fine...anyway I used the fulcrum adapter kit that allows the use of a stock clutch fork and TB anf you can retain stock linkage for the z-bar and all...the kit came with a crossmember and tranny mount..I upgraded to a aluminum flywheel with correct balance and king cobra clutch and kit came with the correct length driveshaft and yoke...and let me tell you for less than 1200.00 I had a t-5 in my 66 and it works awesome..I also used a stock t-5 shifter and a I reused the speedo cable

 

I've done the adaptor plate with stock linkage and the late model bellhousing with a cable clutch. Hands down, the late model stuff that JamesW described is the better performing method. If you use a performance pressure plate with the stock Z-bar setup, prepare to beef it up or bend itmay bend (BTDT)and also know that your left leg muscles will get a workout!

Good luck!
Jeff

 

I don't see how any streetable diaphragm clutch is going to require as much pedal effort as a factory long-style clutch. Thecoil springs in those are monstrous. My OE styleclutch was a bear, it really killed my knee in heavy traffic. Most diaphragm clutches require so little pedal effort that you need to remove the under-dash assist spring to get normal pedal feel back (and to keep the pedal from sticking to the floor). Even then, my pedalis still relatively light with a diaphragm clutch compared to the OE setup. Not saying it's anywhere near as light (and numb)as a hydraulic setup, but it's more than comfortable for me. I'm actually thinking of switching back to a long-style Boss302 clutch for better grab, pedal effort be damned:P

 

What type of shop would you take your driveshaft to in order to cut it down and rebalance it? Any specific questions to ask them to make sure they don't screw it up? Is it a given that it needs to be exactly 3/4" shorter? I'd like to take it off, have it shortened and ready when I put her back together again.

This seems like the only complicated part to do based upon what James and Starfury mention.

 

Not poking fun, but a driveshaft shop is where you would take your driveshaft to have it cut and balanced.

Oh, and I would get the transmission in and then measure the length from the trans output shaft to the rear end u-joint yoke. The shop can get it right from there. Ask the shop and they can show you exactly how to measure it to get it right. It isn't hard to do at all.

 

LOL,thanks. I just haven't seen one I guess.

 

So Steve, as you can see...there's about4-5 different combinations of old and new that can be done to install a T5. Each has it's pros and cons. At the end of the day, whether it be getting a flywheel rebalance, redrilling the bellhousing for the adapter plate, changing to a push vice pull system, going cable or hydraulic... they all require about the same amount of work.