Optimas do not have a lifetime warranty, heh. The warranty goes through whoever you bought it from.

And yes, your AZ employees are asswipes. Most places will test any carry-in battery for free; it's not like it's difficult, and it doesn't cost them anything. Go around to different parts stores, or Sears, and ask them to charge and test your battery. I'd have them charge it overnight with a low-amp trickle charger as I've resurrected several Optimas that have tested bad initially that way.

I'd also check to see if you have a short somewhere draining the battery. Once you get the battery situation checked out, disconnect the negative terminal and hook an ammeterup in between the terminal and post. It should read less than 50mA. If it's any more than that, you've got something draining your battery.

 

Would something like this be adequate?

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...egoryCode=3014

 

Dude ive had the same red top optima for 13 years.
It goes dead I charge it or jump it off. I cant kill that thing.
I also had problems throwing codes in my 1500 ram put in a new red top all problems were solved.
Charge it overnight or jump it.
Once its running pull the pos. if it goes dead check the gen. and charging system.

 

see if you can borrow a battery charger from someone...

 

Todd, I would not get that charger. It's a manual charger, meaning you'd have to shut it off or risk damaging your battery by overcharging it. You can get a 2A automatic charger from Sears for $30.

Optima Red Tops do not like to be completely discharged. Having worked at Sears for a couple years, the only Red Tops I saw dead before 8 years were completely drained. They had been put on a load (usually the result of bad wiring)and left there for days or weeks, which basically degasses them. Since they're maintenance free, there is no way for you to refill the electrolyte. At that point they're paperweights.

Another note, don't disconnect a battery terminal on a computer controlled vehicle with the engine running. The resulting voltage spike can fry the computer. This isn't true for all computer controlled vehicles, and is usually only true for newer vehicles,but you don't want to find out the hard way. I've talked to several shopowners that havehad this happen to them.

 

No doubt on what Star furry said I only disconnect he old rides. No puters!!!

 

Unfortunately the closest Sears is about 30min away, so I'm stuck w/ AutoZone [:@]

Would this work instead of the previous one I posted?

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...egoryCode=3014




LOL funny you mention that, when I pulled out the battery I was like "where do I put the water in this sucker?!?"

 

you dont have a local auto electrician?
Sears cant post one?
why deal with @ssholes when you have the internet?

 

Yes Todd, that'll work.

 

And if you continue to not drive it for months (shame on you!) I would recomend disconnecting the negative terminal.

It would still be better to drive it once a week or so to also burn off crud, lube seals, burn off water vapor, remember why you love Mustangs, etc!)