everyones carbs
since this is up here what about a 302 with GT40 heads and a 570 carb? I think i could figure this, but i dont know how the heads affect that calculation. btw, whats the VEstand for?
have yet to get some heads, but im thinking GT40s, some shorties, anda decent carb.
have yet to get some heads, but im thinking GT40s, some shorties, anda decent carb.
The Autolite 4100 is the factory 4bbl carb, the 1.08 venturi size(that number will be stampe on the carb) is approx 480cfm, and would work well.
VE= Volumetric Efficiency, and it's a measure of the volume of air/fuel pushed into the cylinder vs the total volume of the cylinder. If you have a 100cc cylinder that pulls in 75cc then it's 75% efficient, or has a 75% VE. The better the heads, cam, intake etc are the better the engine can fill it's cylinders, the higher the VE becomes. Typical street engines with flat tappet cams can range from 75-85% depending on other parts, roller cams can breathe better and roller cammed engines can range from 85% to has high as 95% in some street setups. Some race cars even manage to approach 110-115% VE, due to the fact that the very high induction velocity from higher rpm and bigger breathing engines allows the induction charge to carry enough momentum to have a slight supercharging effect, and ram more air into the cylinder than it would normally allow. That's all naturally aspirated though, forced induction can boost VE well beyond that. And VE is measured in terms of standard tempurature and pressure. A 110% VE engine has denser, and therefore higher pressure air in the cylinder, so when it's adjusted to standard tempurature and pressure the volume measurement exceeds the volume of the cylinder, hence 110% etc. You generally don't see street engines that have over 100% VE unless they have superchargers or turbos.
As far as heads, iron GT40's are good for the money, if you can find them, but spending the money on good heads like AFRs, Edelbrocks, Darts etc will yield more power. And aluminum weighs so much less.
VE= Volumetric Efficiency, and it's a measure of the volume of air/fuel pushed into the cylinder vs the total volume of the cylinder. If you have a 100cc cylinder that pulls in 75cc then it's 75% efficient, or has a 75% VE. The better the heads, cam, intake etc are the better the engine can fill it's cylinders, the higher the VE becomes. Typical street engines with flat tappet cams can range from 75-85% depending on other parts, roller cams can breathe better and roller cammed engines can range from 85% to has high as 95% in some street setups. Some race cars even manage to approach 110-115% VE, due to the fact that the very high induction velocity from higher rpm and bigger breathing engines allows the induction charge to carry enough momentum to have a slight supercharging effect, and ram more air into the cylinder than it would normally allow. That's all naturally aspirated though, forced induction can boost VE well beyond that. And VE is measured in terms of standard tempurature and pressure. A 110% VE engine has denser, and therefore higher pressure air in the cylinder, so when it's adjusted to standard tempurature and pressure the volume measurement exceeds the volume of the cylinder, hence 110% etc. You generally don't see street engines that have over 100% VE unless they have superchargers or turbos.
As far as heads, iron GT40's are good for the money, if you can find them, but spending the money on good heads like AFRs, Edelbrocks, Darts etc will yield more power. And aluminum weighs so much less.
ve= volumetric efficiency the amount of air that processed ex say a stock engine is 60%ve well you add cam heads exhaust etc its will be closer to 85 etc hard to get up to 100% unless your using forced induction
ORIGINAL: 1967mustang
man 67mustang302 thx man ur helping alot, now that i am thinking about i i still have stock carb but just 2 BBl and i liek the 4bbl so ill look into diff carb, so if know anywhere with cheeper carbs. i can rebuild them even if i had too.liek what is the autolite # equal to the holly # you know what i mean what are equal to each other. wht size carb should i be looking for. i wish i woulda suscribed to this site along TIME ago. i kinda want another holly i never had a problem with them but autolite i herd good things too
man 67mustang302 thx man ur helping alot, now that i am thinking about i i still have stock carb but just 2 BBl and i liek the 4bbl so ill look into diff carb, so if know anywhere with cheeper carbs. i can rebuild them even if i had too.liek what is the autolite # equal to the holly # you know what i mean what are equal to each other. wht size carb should i be looking for. i wish i woulda suscribed to this site along TIME ago. i kinda want another holly i never had a problem with them but autolite i herd good things too
VE = (9411*hp*BSFC) / Discplacement(in cubic inches)*RPM
BSFC = brake specific fuel consumption. 0.45 is a good BSFC for a well developed n/a high performance engine, such as a built up street engine. A stock setup is prolly going to have a BSFC more in the neighborhood of 0.48-0.50 if not higher. That's for a well tuned engine BTW, a poorly tune one will have a higher BSFC.
That calculation is for determing what the VE is based on engine horsepower, or let you know what the required VE would be for a certain amount of power in a certain size engine at a certain RPM.
BSFC = brake specific fuel consumption. 0.45 is a good BSFC for a well developed n/a high performance engine, such as a built up street engine. A stock setup is prolly going to have a BSFC more in the neighborhood of 0.48-0.50 if not higher. That's for a well tuned engine BTW, a poorly tune one will have a higher BSFC.
That calculation is for determing what the VE is based on engine horsepower, or let you know what the required VE would be for a certain amount of power in a certain size engine at a certain RPM.


